It’s late Friday night and you’re walking to your car after a fun evening with your friends downtown. As you turn the corner down an unlit side street, you see a shadow dart across the wall and hear footsteps. The hairs on your neck stand straight up. You quicken your pace, but the other footsteps speed up as well. You look around trying to make out shapes in the dark, when out of nowhere a fist connects with your cheekbone. The sucker punch takes you to the ground and you can feel your wallet being taken from your back pocket.
Before you have time to react, your assailant has disappeared back into the cover of darkness.
You really could have used a flashlight.
If you’re like me, you typically think of flashlights as something you keep in your kitchen drawer in case the power goes out, or as what you bring along on an infrequent camping trip so you can find your way back to the tent after you take a middle-of-the-night leak. But according to Mike Seeklander, firearms and tactical trainer with Shooting Performance, a flashlight is something every man should have with him at all times. I met Mike over at the US Shooting Academy here in Tulsa to go over the ins and outs of using a flashlight in a tactical situation. Here’s what he told me.
What Is a Tactical Flashlight?
In today’s post we’re not talking about just any old flashlight. We’re talking about tactical flashlights. What makes a flashlight tactical? A tactical flashlight is simply a flashlight that’s been designed for tactical (i.e. military or police) use. Many tactical flashlights are designed to be mounted to a weapon for low-light shooting. They’re typically smaller than traditional flashlights, emit much more light, and are made of weapon-grade aluminum for maximum durability. While tactical flashlights are designed primarily for military and police units, as we’ll see below, they’re also a really handy everyday and personal defense tool for the average civilian.
Why Every Man Should Carry a Flashlight
Before we even get into the tactical and self-defense uses of a flashlight, let’s talk about why you should start carrying one even if you don’t plan on using it to thwart would-be attackers. Next to a pocket knife, a small, tactical flashlight is one of the most useful and versatile tools a man can have in his Every Day Carry kit.
I can’t count the number of times I’ve been in a situation where a flashlight would have been handy, but I was left stumbling in the dark. Take the other day for example. I was trying to fix a connection on our TV’s audio output, but I couldn’t see a thing behind the stand. So I had to go rummage around my house looking for a flashlight. I could have saved myself about 15 minutes if I simply had a small flashlight tucked in my pocket along with my knife.
And as the residents of the Eastern seaboard learned firsthand last week, electrical power can go out at any time and for long periods. Having a flashlight on you can save time and toe stubs as you navigate about your darkened apartment.
And, besides helping you fix wire connections or navigating your home after a power outage, a flashlight can also be used as an effective self-defense tool.
Flashlights: The Most Underestimated Tool for Personal Defense
If you use a handgun as a personal defense weapon, a flashlight is vital for low-light shooting. Not only does it help you to identify your target, but it also allows you to see your gun sights in the dark. Even if you don’t carry a gun for personal defense, a flashlight, when used correctly, can be very handy in tough situations. (We’ll talk more below about using a flashlight when armed or unarmed.) They can be taken into places like movie theaters or airplanes where guns are banned, and are great for men who live in countries with strict weapons laws, but who still want to carry something for personal defense.
There are two important self-defense functions that a tactical flashlight serves, plus one bonus use.
Helps identify threats. Attackers often use the cover of darkness as an advantage. A bright flashlight can help identify threats in a low-light environment and eliminate the advantage of an attacker stalking in the shadows. Simply shining a light on a bad guy can be enough to get him to take off.
Momentarily disorients attackers. Have you ever had a bright light shined in your eyes when it was dark outside? You probably felt disoriented and even blinded for a bit. You can take advantage of that natural reaction to bright light to defend yourself against would-be attackers.
Whenever you encounter a possible threat, shine your flashlight directly in their eyes, or as Mike says, “dominate their face.” Your assailant will likely reach his hands up to his face and experience three to four seconds of disorientation and semi-blindness. That gives you enough time to either flee or attack.
Bonus use: Improvised weapon. Some tactical flashlights have a serrated or toothed bezel. Manufacturers advertise these specialty bezels as a tool that can be used to break car windows in an emergency. But according to Mike, breaking a window with a small, tactical light is easier said than done. “Me and a bunch of Military Special Operations personnel tried for hours to break a car window with the toothed bezel of a small tactical flashlight. We never broke it.”
While the bezel on a tactical flashlight isn’t going to break windows, it can be used as an improvised striking device during an attack. After you’ve shined the light in your attacker’s eyes and disoriented him, strike his face with the toothed bezel as hard as you can. The motion should be like stamping him with a giant rubber stamp.
Mike says to be careful with the toothed bezeled flashlights when flying. He had one taken away by a TSA agent because it was deemed a “striking tool.” When in doubt, put your flashlight in your checked bag.
Which Flashlight Is the Best Flashlight in Tactical Situations?
So a tactical flashlight is a great self-defense tool. Which one should you get? There are literally nearly 100 different models on the market. The one you choose will typically come down to your budget and personal preference. But here are a few things you should look for when selecting a tactical flashlight for everyday carry:
- Small. You want something small enough to carry in your pocket every day. Your flashlight should be no bigger than the size of your palm.
- At least 120 lumens of light output. For a flashlight to be an effective self-defense tool, it needs to be bright enough to disorient attackers. Anything less than 120 lumens just won’t get the job done.
- Simple. There are flashlights on the market that have strobe or SOS functions, or flashlights that allow you to change the brightness of your light output depending on how many times you push the on/off switch. While many tactical flashlight users swear by these features, Mike recommends keeping things simple. You don’t want a flashlight so complex that you have a hard time using the primary feature (bright light) when you really need it. A simple on/off switch should do the trick.
- Waterproof. You want a flashlight that will work in ALL situations. Get a flashlight that’s waterproof so it will work even in the rain or other wet conditions.
- Ruggedly constructed. Your flashlight will likely see a lot of action, so get something that will withstand the use. Look for one made from hard anodized aluminum. It’s a tough, yet light metal. Also, make sure the metal on the flashlight is machined so that it’s easy to grip. You don’t want to drop your flashlight when you need it most.
- LED or incandescent? Mike prefers LEDs because in his experience incandescent bulbs break easily when dropped while LEDs can withstand a beating. Incandescent bulbs also aren’t very energy efficient. You’ll burn through bulbs and flashlight batteries faster than you will LED bulbs.
Suggested Tactical Flashlights
Surefire P2X Fury Dual Output LED. After the tragic shootings in Aurora, former Navy SEAL Brandon Webb wrote an article about what citizens could do to help protect themselves in a similar situation. His number one recommendation? Carry a super bright tactical flashlight with you at all times. He recommended the Surefire P2X Fury Dual Output LED flashlight. This bad boy puts out 500 lumens of light. Downside of the Surefire is price. This little guy will set you back $121. Ouch.
Streamlight 88031 Protac Tactical Flashlight 2L. If you’re looking for a more affordable tactical flashlight, check out the Streamlight ProTac. Its 180 lumens of light output is more than enough to blind an attacker so you can escape and evade. $44.
NiteCore Extreme LED Flashlight. Mike’s go-to flashlight. His has taken a beating and been through the wash three times, but still works like a champ. Unfortunately, it appears NiteCore no longer makes this flashlight, but you still might find some places that still sell it new. If all else fails, look for a used one.
How to Safely Maneuver in a Dark Space With a Flashlight
When you hear something go bump in the night and you think that something might be armed and dangerous, there’s a particular way you want to maneuver in a dark space when using your flashlight to maximize your safety. Here’s how to do it.
Try the light switch first. If you’re in a low-light environment, your first step should be to simply turn on the main light source if it’s convenient and safe to do so. Don’t be like the forensics teams on CSI. The more light you have, the better.
Of course, there will be situations when turning on the main light source is impossible — you’re not near the switch, electricity is out, you’re outside, etc. In that case you’ll need to use your flashlight. But if you suspect there’s an attacker nearby with a weapon, you’ll need to use your flashlight in a certain way to keep yourself safe.
Light on, scan, light off, move. When you’re maneuvering in a low-light environment and believe there’s an armed attacker nearby, you don’t want to leave your flashlight on the entire time. That just makes you an easy target. Instead, follow this sequence:
- Light on
- Scan environment. Look for threats.
- Light off
- Move
- Repeat

When maneuvering in a low-light environment, don’t leave your flashlight on the entire time. That just makes you an easy target. Instead follow this sequence: turn light on, scan, turn light off, move.
Your threat will likely shoot at or attack where they last saw the light from your flashlight. By turning off your light and then moving, you’ll increase the chances that you’re not standing where your threat is going to shoot or attack.
How to Use a Tactical Flashlight When You’re Unarmed
Even if you don’t carry a firearm, you can use a small flashlight to defend yourself from a would-be assailant. Whenever you encounter a threat, shine the light on his face, and dominate his eyes. The bright light will cause momentary blindness and disorientation, giving you enough time to flee or engage your attacker. If you don’t have any combatives training or if you don’t know whether or not your threat is armed, your best option is to flee. No need for the macho stuff; living is manlier than having your gut poked through with a knife.
If you must engage your attacker, a quick, hard hit to the face with the toothed bezel on your tactical flashlight should incapacitate him enough for you to get away. Low, hard kicks to the groin or knees are also effective in this situation as he won’t be able to see them coming with the light shined in his eyes.
How to Hold a Flashlight When Using a Gun
If you use a gun for personal defense, you’ll definitely want to learn how to manipulate and fire the weapon with a flashlight. According to FBI statistics, the likelihood of having to use your weapon in a low-light situation is much greater than that of using in broad daylight. While weapon-mounted lights and night sights both serve a purpose when using a gun in a dark environment, both have downsides as well. The big issue with weapon-mounted lights is that because the flashlight is mounted on your gun, you have to point your gun at the object you want to illuminate. Not very safe. The problem with night sights is that while you can see your sights so you can align them, if it’s too dark (and you don’t have a flashlight), you can’t see the target and whether he/she/it is actually a threat. Plus, night sights can be pretty dang expensive and might not be in your budget.
When used in a certain way, a small, tactical flashlight can allow you to safely assess your situation without pointing your gun at a non-threat (solving the issue with weapon-mounted lights) and you’ll be able to see your sights and your target without dropping a big chunk of change (solving the issues with night sights).
Below, we’ll first take a look at the techniques Mike doesn’t recommend using when carrying both a flashlight and a gun, and then explain the method he prefers.
The Disadvantages of Two-Handed Flashlight-Gun Techniques

The first two-handed technique for holding both gun and flashlight involves holding the flashlight in front of you with your non-dominant hand, while resting your gun-holding hand on top, as seen in the left-side image above. You’ll oftentimes see this technique being done on cop shows. The second two-handed approach is called the Rogers technique. The Rogers technique is a modification of the normal shooting grip with the flashlight trapped between the first and second or second and third finger of your non-dominant hand, as seen in the right-side image above.
While Mike thinks both grips have some merit, he also believes each has some downsides that compromise your safety and the safety of others when using a firearm in a low-light situation.
The big downside of both two-handed techniques is that if you want to shine a light on something, you also have to point your gun at that object or person. While you may be practicing good safety measures by keeping your finger off the trigger, you have to accept the risk that you’re pointing your muzzle at a potential non-threat, like your kiddo or your weird neighbor.
Moreover, two-handed techniques may leave you vulnerable to a head strike. With both hands holding the gun and flashlight, you have no way of protecting your head from a swing from a hidden attacker.
Another issue Mike has with two-handed techniques is that, with the exception of the Rogers technique, none of them really offer any decent recoil control over one-handed shooting.
Finally, if you’re not careful, it can be easy to activate your gun’s magazine release when using a two-handed technique.
Mike’s Recommendation: The Eye Index Technique
Instead of a two-handed shooting technique, Mike recommends and teaches a one-handed approach that he calls the “Eye Index Technique.” The Eye Index Technique is a modification of a gun/flashlight technique taught to Federal Air Marshals called the “Neck Index.”

To perform the Eye Index Technique follow these steps:
1. Hold your tactical flashlight in your non-dominant hand so that the light is by your eye. This serves two purposes. First, the placement of the flashlight here will illuminate not only your target, but also your gun sights. You need to see both in order to hit your target. Second, having your hand up by your head like this offers you protection from any head strikes that might come your way.
2. Extend your gun hand out. Because you’ll be firing with just one hand, you’ll need to modify the way you hold the gun for recoil control. Grip the gun tighter with your dominant hand than you would if you were firing with two hands, yet ensure that your trigger finger remains as relaxed as possible. Your thumb should be angled up slightly to ensure that there’s equal pressure on the rear back strap of the gun. Don’t extend your arm all the way out. Leave a slight bend in your elbow. This will help keep your arm behind the gun for recoil control.
3. Turn your flashlight on. If you’re holding the flashlight in the correct place, the light beam should illuminate your gun sights as well as any target you engage in. Scan and assess. Turn off the light and move. When you engage a threat, dominate his face and use the time that he’s disoriented to assess the threat level and make your choice on how to proceed.
4. If you want to shine a light at a person that isn’t a threat, bring the gun to your chest in a one-handed, high ready position. By having your gun close your body like this, you prevent it being taken away from you by an attacker you can’t see.
As with all firearms techniques, consistent training is key. It’s especially important if you’ve never done one-handed firing. If you have an outdoor gun range that’s open when it’s dark, take advantage of that. Even if you don’t have access to a low-light gun range, you can and should practice firing your gun one-handed while holding a flashlight with your non-dominant hand.
———
Big thanks to Mike Seeklander at Shooting Performance. If you have a chance, I highly recommend you take a class from Mike. Fantastic teacher who really knows his stuff. If you can’t make it to one of his classes, pick up his latest book Your Defensive Handgun Training Program. Mike lays out a detailed training program on how to use a handgun in defensive situations. I just got my copy and I can’t wait to get started with it.







{ 86 comments… read them below or add one }
Simple question: how to use a flashlight in a tactical situation?
Simple answer: by attaching it to a gun.
I had a Surefire E2D LED Defender. Great light and had the strike bezel. My only grip was the low setting was too low. I actually am waiting for my Surefire Fury in the mail. It looks great but I wish it had a tactical switch. I got the dual output model and you have to cycle from low to high, would have been nicer the other way around.
I agree 100%. My only thought is…wallet, pocket notebook, pen, pocket knife, keys, cell phone, handkerchief…..my pockets are pretty full if I am not wearing a jacket without adding in the flashlight (which is in my bag that’s with me 70% of the time). For those of us that don’t like pouches or clips on the belt, anyone have any solutions for comfortably carrying all of this if you are in, say, jeans and a t-shirt?
What would I do if I had a two handed gun? Like a pump action?
Hey, I was wondering…is Maglite Solitaire good enough to carry in your pocket for that kind of situation?
Maglites are excellent. Ask any police officer. The AA Solitaire is big enough and bright enough to use. As a weapon, grip it in you hand and punch.
One thing, maglite to the head can be considered a deadly weapon. If you swing above the shoulders, you had better mean it.
I don’t agree with “Eye Index Technique”. In my experience, when dealing with armed intruders they will fire at the light. I train my students to hold the flashlight about eye level with an extended arm at 10 o’clock. This provides 2 benefits, someone shooting at a light is less likely to land hits and it doesn’t expose to the intruder that you are armed yourself. You should still be able to see your sights from the ambient light produced by the flashlight.
Michael is correct. A flashlight is a poor self-defense tool and should not be recommended as such.
If you have a weapon, it makes no sense to mess around with holding a separate flashlight; get a mount.
Don’t get me wrong. A flashlight is extremely useful to have – but if you plan on defending yourself, get a gun or knife instead.
Pretty sure I’m gonna be testing one of these out on my wife and toddler.The bright light part, not the rubber stamp to the face part.
maglite solitaire — may as well just use a bic lighter. sorry to dismiss the light that way , but at 37 lumens, it is not in any way a tactical light choice. the solitaire is best used to find keyholes,or see into the back of a closet. a decent light for all around use is made by Streamlight – the Scorpion X is my choice. 200 lumens, built like a mack truck ,10 yr battery life in storage and at just under 5 inches long, easy to carry. there are versions with and without safety loops, and the body design helps keep the light any place you set it down. best bang for the buck in my book.
If you’re engaging someone in the dark, and you have a flashlight on… what do you think the other guy is going to shoot at? They’ll probably aim for the light source…
DB,
I keep my pen and knife next to each other in my right pocket, they’re similar length and clip just fine together. I don’t carry around a pocket notebook, but I instead have 3″x5″ cards folded in half in my wallet(you don’t really use all of those card slots, do you?), and I keep filled ones stored as pictures on my phone, that is in my left pocket(or, on it’s clip on my left pocket). I don’t feel short on pocket space at all. Is there something excessive about what you’re carrying that you can trim down?
Both the Harries & Rogers are much more effective, safer, faster, accurate and more intuitive than the Eye/Neck/Next to Your Head Hold. All of the concerns raised in the article about the two handed techniques are easily corrected training issues.
I have no personal knowledge as to what technique FAM is currently teaching, but I would be very surprised if they are using the Upside Your Head Technique. I’ve put a lot of rounds downrange using both the Harries and the Rogers, and of the two, the Rogers is the preferred method. I’ve cleared hundreds of buildings using a pistol and a flashlight, and there’s a right way to do it, and then there’s the Eye Index Method.
I don’t know Mike Seeklander. I looked over his “about me” bio on his website, and to be quite honest, his military and LEO experience is pretty light. According to what I read, he’s got 3 years as a street cop, tops and all of it was over a decade ago. Maybe that explains it. I don’t know of any reputable firearms trainer who advocates the Eye Index Technique anymore. Simply put, tactics evolve, and that’s some 1980′s stuff.
Using the Rogers, especially with a flashlight with a “syringe” style body, like many of the tactical combat lights Surefire makes, gives you a natural, stable two handed grip on your weapon, which makes you both much more accurate over a one handed grip, and helps reduce the risk of a weak grip induced malfunction; as well as allowing you to align the light with the muzzle to better illum your target. The Hey Shoot at the Light Up by my Face Method does none of these critical tasks.
Done take my word for it, though. Get a pistol, a flashlight, and do some realistic low light training. It will be pretty obvious which method will serve you best in a real fight.
Just got into the car after completing a night fam shoot at warrior school in Tucson as part of pre-deployment run-up. Too coincidental not to comment.
We covered much of what was on here, including three techniques on a handgun, three on a long gun, and the relative advantages and disadvantages of each. Sometimes you need the additional stability of a two-hands-on-the-gun lighting technique, sometimes you don’t.
+1 on a non-mounted light for handgun use. One of the immutable rules of defensive/combat shooting is that you do not point your weapon at anything you are not prepared to destroy. So if that noise in your kitchen turns out to be your wife… best to find out in a way that doesn’t end up with a gun pointed at her.
I keep my Maglite XL200 with my pistol at night. http://www.amazon.com/Maglite-XL200-LED-Flashlight-Black/dp/B005EHL6O8/ref=reg_hu-rd_add_1_dp
But I agree with DB. I don’t have room to carry such a big flashlight with me during the day. So I carry the Fenix E01 on my keychain. It is light, durable and only a little bigger than a AAA battery.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GAOO6Y/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00
Seems legit. I know when I will be traveling in Europe and Asia I won’t have my gun with me, and I don’t know about laws with knives in several of those countries, but a tactical flashlight will come in handy and probably be legal in all countries. If ‘m coming home form the bar late in Bangkok Thailand, it’d be good to have at least a blunt object on me that is also a tool to aid my seeing. I do have Krav Maga training, so it’s not like I’ll be relying completely on striking with the flashlight.
surefire and nothing else, 6p and 6z. had em 8 years now, well worth the cost.
I like this article. I have started carrying a knife that has a removable light/flint, and an emergency whistle in the handle. I know some people don’t trust knives like this, but I’ve loved it since the day I got it and have used it almost as often. I almost forgot, battery is an issue that was not mentioned, though it is rather important, I think.
I had (unfortunately, I lost it) a Foursevens QP2A-X and it was the greatest light I had ever owned. 280 lumens on two AA batteries, a simple mode interface, good size and weight (like a 2xAA mini maglite). Beat the socks off the Surefire lights I have seen. Not a bad package for $65. You have no Idea how handy a flashlight is until you carry one.
Maglites are OK but why would you use them when you can get so much better,like a key chain light brighter than 6D maglite.
I suggest going to http://www.candlepowerforums.com for info and recommendations.
Great site fellas.
Have to disagree with Mike on the ridiculous flashlight to eye technique..that’s a big WTF over from me. If you’re using a gun and need a light then the gentleman who suggested attached the light to the gun gets +1000.
If you’re going the less than lethal route and carrying a light only then pony up for a Surefire P2 Fury Defender, they’re worth the coin. They also have several models that fit on handguns (I have one on my Glock). Some things you just don’t go cheap on. Guns, things that go on guns (flashlights) and parachutes are a few that come to mind.
Again, great site. Side note: Be careful who you train with and be sure to check their creds. There’s a lot of self-proclaimed expert idiots out there.
Brandon out.
Former US Navy SEAL and Editor for SOFREP.com
This was an informative post despite its emphasis on flashlight usage with a firearm (gun laws are really strict in India). Also, how many of you realized that the Mike Seeklander was a participant in Season one of Top Shot?
This may sound like a cheesy compromise, but I have the Samsung B2100 for a phone, which is shock and water resistant and the LED light is pretty handy. I wouldn’t prefer it for a tactical situation, but I have used it in dozens of practical situations. I get crap about having such a relatively minimalist phone, but when we need a light, suddenly I’m the man! And it’s something I always carry on me.
Brett, the “Fenix” brand tactical lights are afffordable & dependable. I was intriduced to them & the ways they can be used in a defence situation at a “Carry Legal” concealed carry course in Broken Arrrow. They have some in house for sale…
Matt B. has a great point.
I just completed my rookie year as a cop. All the training I have recieved in low light shooting always hit on that point. The bad guy, if armed with a gun, with most often shoot reactively to towards the light source. If the light is close to your center mass there is a greater chance that a bullet will strike you. Keeping the flashlight away from your body increases the chance that the bad guys shots will miss. The most important thing is to practice. If you have never shot at night and you have or want to get a ccw then practice shooting at night along with your regular firearms training.
Just started carrying a knife, and now I have to carry a flashlight? A cell phone can function for light to see by.
This goes too far for me, sorry. I moved to a place where I don’t have to worry about crime. I don’t carry anything of value anyway; no watch, cheapo cel phone and a worn, cashless wallet.
There is no better flashlight in all the world that a Surefire, as far as I’m concerned (and countless military and law enforcement personnel would back me up on that statement, I think) — they’re WELL worth the cost. Invest in quality equipment. Period. You will not regret it – spend on a Maglite Solitaire, and you WILL regret it.
@Brandon-
I appreciate you stopping by and leaving a comment. I absolutely respect your expertise and think you have an excellent site yourself. The article of yours I linked to in this piece is what got me interested in learning more about tactical flashlight use in the first place, so thanks for that.
I make no pretenses to being an expert, so feedback like yours is always welcome. I will say though that as a layman, I don’t find Mike’s method all that “ridiculous.” Perhaps it matters less in police/military scenarios, but for personal defense use, I don’t like the idea of pointing both my light and gun at something, only to realize it’s my toddler in the kitchen. And while it’s true that putting your light by your head gives a threat a target, having a light on your gun puts the target on your chest. If anything, it seems like Matt’s suggestion of holding the flashlight away from your body might be the best method.
Also, don’t know if your note about being careful about who you train with was meant to insinuate that Mike might be a rogue crackpot, but his credentials are sound:
http://www.shooting-performance.com/Shooting-Performance/About_Me.html
Again, thanks for stopping by and adding your thoughts.
If I may interject on the debate about the “ridiculousness” of Mike’s suggestions, as well as the recommendations to be fully tactically trained in shooting:
Many laymen don’t need or want to be in a tactical firefight. They don’t want to sweep their house for a paramilitary assault team, they just want some assurance that should a robber be in their house, they have the ability to defend themselves and their family. I doubt any of us civilians can over train our shooting abilities and I love to shoot, but asking someone who has to put food on the table(with this economy) to spend the money to get a quality instructor, the range time, ammunition (with the tax hikes we’re seeing from a more gun control oriented government), it starts to add up and it will still only be a secondary skill for many of us, not one used to put food on the table. I don’t think any of us would turn down the formal training if we’re able financially and have the time, but a dumbed down version to keep us safe NOW so that we can learn to be safer to get training to be better LATER sounds like a good bit of advice.
Great article! I just want to add one thing to the non-recommended way of holding your flashlight when looking for a possible assailant. One of past teachers is a retired police officer and he told us one day in class that you should not hold the flashlight in front of your body because if an assailant is armed and looking to hurt you, when they see the light that is going to be the thing they shoot at first. He recommended that you hold it not directly in front of you but to the side. Just trying to help out my other AOM brothers
I’ve been carrying a Lightstar 220 by TerraLUX for around a year now. It works splendidly, goes through batteries a bit fast, but when I need light it’s there. I’d hate to get hit with it, it fits well in a hand, and it’d hurt. Very interesting post!
I really like my Streamlight 33244 flashlight, which ConsumerSearch named their Best Household Flashlight. I took it with me into the Australian bush and really appreciated its sharply focused LED beam (as bright as a MagLite 3D) at night.
Interesting. Mostly read it so if I wound up writing a scene with a guy in a low light situation I could make it reasonably realistic, knowing as little as I do about modern combat (kinda stuck back in the middle ages!). Anyway, I used to carry a big old Maglite in my car for two reasons: self defense as I drove a lot at night in college, and the more practical usage as a light should my car break down. Although size wise the thing would be unwieldy should I be in the car when I needed to use it, and it wasn’t exactly something I could stick in my pocket, it was fairly reassuring to have. For the record I’ve never had to “fire in anger”, as it were. Thank goodness–I’d rather just let the person take my wallet than hurt them (or get hurt myself!).
A bunch of Military Special operatives couldn’t break a car window? Were they bashing bulletproof glass?
I think I’ll weigh in on the debate.
First, the whole ‘flashlight on side of head thing’ has a couple of merits for the civilian. The big one is that in a situation where things are coming fast and spiraling out of control, you know that you’re always illuminating what you’re looking at. If your flashlight is in your hand, you can be looking around while forgetting to turn your hand and illuminate. You also risk blinding yourself with side-scatter from your light…especially if you don’t own a really tight-beam light.
That being said, it’s got some serious drawbacks: 1) Your reaction is more like a turret, and you’re slow. 2) You lose a lot of peripheral vision out of your non-dominant eye. 3) Your hand’s up, but it’s so close to your head that a good punch is going to literally hit you with your own flashlight. Might not do your attacker’s hand a lot of good…..but it’s sure not helping you either. 4) And a big one….it puts the number 1 thing you don’t want shot right beside the number 1 thing that attracts gunfire.
Here are some suggestions, from my training and experience, and from co-workers and instructors I respect:
1) The FBI technique (crossed hands) is good for supporting your gun if you’re going to be holding it out a while. Say you’ve got excellent situational awareness, and you draw your weapon before your attacker gets close. They freeze and surrender….what do you do? If you can summon the police, you could hold the would-be assailant proned out at gunpoint rather than flee and risk him doubling back and trying again, or going after you as you escape…..also works in a house. The bad thing about the FBI technique is that it’s best done when you’re wearing body armor…..the light is center mass….so for me it would attract bullets towards my most protected area…..unarmored it’s attracting bullets straight to your vitals.
2) Most rooms are painted white, or have white ceilings. If you’ve got a good light, and aren’t expecting an attack (just need to light the way), a quick fix is to aim your light up towards the ceiling in the center of the room…..the reflection will provide a soft illumination to the room (dependent on size and height of ceiling) that will allow you to quickly scan the whole area. Cutting off the light will plunge the room again into darkness if something untoward is noticed, and you can proceed with un-arsing the area, or moving forward with tactical techniques….
3) With a weapon in darkness, my preferred method, with or without a light, is to hold my off-arm up in front of me, elbow bent so that it’s between a boxer’s stance and a tae-kwon-do block in position. I’m bladed slightly towards my off-side as well. Without a light, I’ve got an arm up to feel….or fend off an initial blow. With a light I’ve got freedom of movement, a stance that provides some close-combat protection, and I don’t backlight myself or my weapon, keeping me at least a somewhat unknown quantity to my assailant. My sidearm is low…at belly level, my elbow tucked in tight, muzzle to the front. This technique I’ve drilled into myself as the first-stage of my normal draw….from which I punch out. For night-stuff or close quarters, I keep it low…..you don’t necessarily need to see your sights at ‘contact range’. What you need to do is protect your weapon. A gun held out in close combat is a gun easily neutralized. A gun held tight is a gun that is hard to take away or maneuver around. If they attack you in close, your shots will be hitting between the pelvis and the chest….lots of nice targets there. If they appear farther away……you can quickly punch your weapon out to full extension and acquire your sights. You can also bring your flashlight hand into play at that point to help stabilize your shot if need be.
This technique also works well for maneuvering through doorways once you pie them. A sudden attack from an angle or alcove you couldn’t see won’t put your weapon out of play immediately.
Those techniques are the ones that I use. Each has its purposes.
Good information here, but the best element of the article is Ted’s illustrations: love the fedora & trench coat.
A good point was made above: if you took every bit of advice to carry on your person this and that accoutrement, notepad & pencil, flashlight, handkerchief, small tool packet, Altoids tin survival kit, ad infinitum, that “every gentleman should have” you’d be more burdened than a pan-peddlar’s wagon, and likely to jangle and clank along just as loudly.
I agree that all these things are good to have; it’s just that there’s a practical limit to how much gear I can haul around on my body. So I have to make some choices: two handkerchiefs, or one, and a small sewing kit? Multi-tool, or tactical flashlight?
And don’t tell Antonio I’m considering cargo pants to deal with it all. :^)
Great article and followup posts, seems to me that there is no one right way only alot of different techniques for differing situations or physical limitations….I think I’ll train utilizing each technique.
Mike is an accomplished shooter/trainer/ and has a great resume….thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great Article! I EDC either a Taurus 709S or my ‘ol S&W 39-2, neither of which have night sights or accessory rails, thus the need for a handheld light. My question is: does anyone make a compact, reliable, high output light with a momentary power switch (aside from Surefire)? I’d think it would be much easier to get into the on-scan-off-move pattern in a stressful situation if all you had to do would be lift your thumb from the button. Also, for those of you who carry torches with your firearms, where do you generally carry them? I feel as though leaving a light like that on a belt is usually a pretty dead giveaway that you’re carrying, and fitting it in a pocket will yield a slow, clumsy draw.
Cheers!
I have to chime in here. The USCG trains to use the two-handed technique of using the reaction hand under the wrist of the weapon hand and pointing the firearm with the light. That’s the method that makes the most sense to me. The 10 o’clock-high method seems ungainly, and the idea of keeping it next to my head also seems disadvantageous. The way I figure it, if I don’t have my finger on the trigger, I won’t shoot an unintended target. So I’m not worried.
In countries like the UK where there are absolutely NO provisions in law for defensive weapons, an improvised defensive tool like a flashlight is a great choice. For training think conceptually; reverse grip knife methods translate well for flashlight use, so James Keating’s ‘Drawpoint’ system has some great concepts & drills that work with impact tools too. We do a great deal of Tactical Flashlight work in our Tactical Edge system too, as it is such a useful impact weapon & is often the first thing to come to hand. Remember, even if you ARE carrying a lethal force option such as a knife or handgun, your initial encounter with the opponent may well be unarmed, & the flashlight being already in your hand if your moving through a low light area could provide more of a reactionary gap in the opponent if transitioning to another weapon.
The thing is, in America today you are very unlikely to be stalked or attacked by one person, the idea of getting into a one-on-one fight scares them. It will be at least 3 and usually 5 or more, they have no problem with attacking in broad daylight either.
How do you clear your house? It’s a trick question, answer is that you don’t. Just about every house will have a “choke point” between the living area and the sleeping area. Use your 12 gauge to cover that location (insert standard pump racking argument here), then call the cops and let them clear your house. And get a dog or at least an alarm, make the bad guys find a softer target.
I think I have THE best and most cost effective answer to this challenge. Costco has the TechLite Lumen Master 200 in three packs for $20 (often on sale for $15). They are fabulous and cost 5% to 10% of the ones you normally see. They are powerful at 200 lumens, LED, small, rugged, simple, waterproof and…cheap at less than $7 each. Buy 20 of them and stash them everywhere. There is no better way to get the right light for this money.
I found a new tactical flashlight by maglight after reading the article. The website say it puts out 320 lumens and it has pocket clip.
Off topic, but there is a cool trick you can do with the Eye Index Technique. I learned this years ago at summer camp; it’s awesome around-the-campfire stuff for kids.
Go outside at night before the dew falls and hold a flashlight like the Eye Index Technique and scan the grass in a circle starting about 10-20ft out from you. Look for little red or green sparkles. They look like little pieces of glitter or something. When you spot one hold the light on it and approach. It’s the eye shine of a spider every time. There are usually dozens of them scattered around…
It has to be before the dew falls though, because water droplets will give you false readings.
Depending on your feelings about spiders I guess you could count that as a tactical use of a flashlight!
One addition I have made to my EDC light (a MTE C3-907; find online at mte-USA.com) is some duct tape wrapped around the base end. This allows it to be held more comfortably in my mouth for when I have those two handed tasks that require a light as well.
In regards to the “where the heck do I add this to my pockets” question. I carry my iPhone in my front left; altoids “mans night out tin” (feel free to ask what’s in that little bad boy), pocket knife, and flash light in my front right; the change pocket houses my zippo; back right is wallet; back left is notebook; pen is generally clipped to my shirt collar or next to my knife in the front right. I have also carried my knife on the inside of my waistband near my back right pocket (in a similar spot where my CCW would go if I didn’t live in Washington DC where I am unable to legally carry a loaded gun); a knife here has two benefits in my mind 1: it is less obvious to those that look at my pockets, many places dislike seeing knifes, like bars etc, so they can’t see it when in the waist band 2: if I were ever tied with my hands behind my back odds are the knife would be missed in my initial search and I would have access to it.
Well that’s just my two cents, great read though!!
Not sure why these guys had a hard time busting out a car window with the “strike bezel”. I did it with my Surefire defende. One hit and I was able to get to an unresponsive accident victim. The key to taking out normal car windows, the weak points are in the corners, strike there. This does not apply to windshields and if possible wrap your hand in a cloth or wear a glove to protect yourself. Peace out brothers and sisters!
Hi–
A flashlight under my pillow saved me from a serious bear atteck in Yellowstone Park 40 years ago. I had no other “weapon,” couldn”t see the bear that was clawing at my sleeping bag (pitch black), but when I shined it at the base of my bag the black bear took off. I had only a few cuts. I do carry a flashlight on my key chain always, even though I have tons of keys–essential! I did also have a whistle. If interested in OTHER lighting (solar back up generator), check me out at Google.
Hi Brett-
This was in no way a dig at Mike. It was a buyer beware to the scourge of guys out there who make false claims about their backgrounds. My friend Don Shipley has about 20 phony SEAL submissions a day. It’s out of control! You guys have a great site.
Brandon
I suppose the Eye Index technique has some merits, but whatever they are I think they must be outweighed by the negatives. A bright light that close to your eye is going to degrade peripheral vision on one side, even after the light is turned off. Plus, it gives the opponent a well-illuminated sight picture for your head. Probably not the best of all possible worlds.
I was a municipal police officer and Army criminal investigator for nearly 4 decades, finally retiring from that line of work in 2010. I’ve also been through four classes at Gunsite, where they covered the use of light with a firearm. Trust me, I AM NOT saying I’m an authority, but I have been exposed to some training in this area. The FBI used to teach holding the flashlight in your weak hand as far out from your body as you could, on the theory (reasonable enough) that light tends to draw fire. Then came holding the light braced against the back of your shooting hand, which is probably the most commonly taught technique now. This still has the drawback of drawing fire to your chest area, but it does a better job of aligning the light with where your weapon is pointing.
You’ll have to decide whether you can be trusted with pointing a loaded gun at someone when you illuminate them. Situations, and people, vary.
And I agree with an earlier post that the best solution was to hang a light on the pistol!
As a night watchman this is great advice
I have no real experience here, but I once read that you should never look in one direction and aim your firearm in another, essentially your aim should follow your gaze. To me, this seems more consistent with a two handed grip with the gun hand rested on the light hand. Just a layman’s comment.
People will naturally shoot at lights. Hold the flashlight away from your body and up high if you don’t want to take a shot to the face or chest. This is why most police officers will hold the flashlight up and away from their body.
My training is geared toward a confirmed adversary, but on the off chance you get into a covered posistion, always consider laying your lightsource on the opposite side of the cover to illuminate the desired area and shooting two handed from the original side. There are certainly plenty of cons to that, but depending in the scenario, it can allow you to take longer shots and offset yourself from the natural point of interest.
The comments for this article are nearly as amusing and insightful as the article itself!
LAV does not suggest putting a flashlight/target indicator next to your face.. last thing you need is a BG shooting at the light and hitting you square in the head.. refer to http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yNcrysTdKKc
This really has to be treated with some care, because while lights are excellent at distracting/stunning as well as illuminating when used with oscillating/strobing and “painting” techniques, they are a bullet magnet, and could easily do more harm than good — even get someone killed.
Strongly recommend:
http://www.amazon.com/The-Strategies-Low-Light-Engagments-Good/dp/1424309131?tag=duckduckgo-d-20
Having A Flashlight is more Important than the kind, power , or Brand of Flashlight! I have had a Mini-Mag Light on my belt since they came on the market! I have now “Upgraded to a LED Mini-Mag Light and have added a Mag-Light LED XL-50 on my belt. With-in 6ft. almost all good flashlights will have enough power to blind an attacker long enough for an effetive attack or a fair head start in a “retreat”! The main thing is Always have a Flashlight With You! Be sure that you have a very sturdy flashlight. When it dark use it! Use it in the “Scan and Move” mode even when walking down a dark street or parking lot this will indicate that you are Alert and a Bad Target Choice!
Great introductory article, but I feel like you could have elaborated on a few things. A true tactical flashlight will only have one mode. On and Off. When your goal is to blind an attacker, you don’t want to have to fiddle with your flashlight to switch from Dim to High.
In the tacitical community, general consensus is that you should use different lighting techniques, depending on what you’re trying to accomplish. If you’re in the room with an armed assailant, neck index is the worst tech to use in that situation, because you silhouetting your own gun, giving away your position. BG needs to just shoot in the general vicinity of where the light is, and they’ll hit you. Best approach would be something like a modified FBI flashlight tech in this case.
thank you for the article. I’ve actually used your suggested technique for “dark room” stages for IPSC competitions and it works for me despite what is preached in other articles.
what I like about the Eye Index technique is that it gives me a wider field of view so I could see more as I move around a dark room. if I could see more, I could move faster and safer compared to keeping the flashlight close to my pistol.
Fenix LD15 in a combo pocket sheath with my knife. It’s small, extremely bright, and uses 1 AA – a battery that can be found just about anywhere.
But I think what also needs to be stressed is JUDICIOUS use of a light. Remember – a light means that your assailant/s can now easily pinpoint you as well. There are situations where a light is useful, and situations where taking advantage of the dark if preferable. Assuming your assailants aren’t using lights either (or night visions) then they have (or don’t have) just as much visibility as you do.
in some training you are taught if your in the dark aim for the light good chance to score a hit that way
never expose your position let the bad guy expose his
A lot of your advice was based on the presumption that you need to see your gunsights. My advice? Use tritium sights. I use them on my Glock 19 and love them.
The light to the side of the head went away as a good tactic years ago. Cop for 30 years and trainer for 20. The two two -handed techniques are what we teach if you dont have a light on the end of the gun.
As far as Seelander being on top shot that is no bonafide for me. I have watched every episode of the show and have been unimpressed witht the tactics and shooters more times than I was impressed.
Of course facial indexing techniques are taught to air marshals, the odds that they will face an attacker armed with a pistol is negligible. The odds that you or I while searching a dark room will encounter an armed attacker are gigantic. I’m not going to hold an aiming point near my skull, always ALWAYS examine why a particular profession does something, and don’t assume it’s gospel just because they are low-drag professions. Adapt, learn it ALL, and then put a stupid tactical light on your light rail and stop worrying about “techniques”.
Great article. I ran a paper route years ago, in a not-so-wonderful area of town. In a year, I twice stopped suspicious people from approaching me with my CREE LED flashlight. I’ve found 150 lumens in the face at 3am is a very nice way to say “stay away from me, and my vehicle.”
One thing that is under-taught is non-sight combat.
What if an assailant “accidentally” flash-blinds you with his headlights getting out of his car before-hand?
I can honestly say that without this skill, I *might* not be here today (though it is highly probable I still would be).
In school, someone who had recently smoked a marijuana cigarette turned the shower on full and broke off the knob at the bolt. They were surprised to find me, and threw the knob at the back of my head. I heard it whistling through the air, ducked left, and was brushed on the shoulder by the projectile.
I looked up in time to see it shatter on impact with a locker 5 feet in front of me.
I feel secure saying that, in the given scenario, I would have been capable of fighting….
This is not to speak of whether I would win, though, by any means.
All of your comments and the article are good to get you thinking about not being a easy target.
There are a lot of opinions on “tactical” flaslights and techniques to use them.
I will not claim to be an expert. I have been a flashlight geek for a very long time (25+ years).
In the last five years I got involved as a flashlight dealer then wholesaler. I got into this totally by accident. It is a long story, (you can see it on my website) It was due to an LE firearms instructor and my interactions with him. As lights have rapidly improved the techniques have morphed continually over the last several years. I hear people talking about strobing blinding you, as you try to clear room and giving the bad guy in advantage. as 1 of the other comments said you have to train with everything you plan to carry with you to be proficient with it. I know that if you have a bright light shine in your eyes your turn your head for split second but most people try to look through the light because it is just natural instinct. I I have noticed that it’s very hard to look at a strobing light because it actually hurts and it’s very hard to stay looking in that direction. 1 of the other things I’ve noticed that you cannot see forward or backward movement in dark it in dark room at night with a strobe light shining in your face. Which I think would give you a tremendous advantage of you had to go for concealment or cover. As a side note many law enforcement officers of told me that just a few seconds strobing a drunk person willmake them throw up. If it’s a dumb drunk you’re trying to deal with that might be a handy thing to have and know. I have noticed several interesting things as I have been talking to different agencies. Each agency has their own thoughts on how to use light and what it will do for you. And it is ever changing. I feel the techniques haven’t caught up with all the technology, when you have a light that will fit in your pocket with a tactical switch and over 700 lumens. It makes things a little different. Even in the daylight it is hard to look at this light on strobe. (I might need to do some new videos to show some of this)
I agree that you should always carry a “good” light. I have dozens of lights from various manufactures that are well known, that have issues from poor soldering on the circuit boards to lights that can’t manage power well and may work when you click the switch the first time then two seconds later not work due to a low battery. I would rather have one great light than 10 so so lights. sorry but I have hand surgery and I’m having to use a voice recognition program for the for this, so everything is running together.
I personally prefer a small to medium Maglite for use with a weapon. Hold the flashlight in your offhand towards the palm. With the offhand thumb on the button and the offhand index finger around the underside of the light, the gun’s butt can rest in your last three fingers, providing weapon stabilization. This illuminates the target and gives you the freedom to let go and continue to scan with the light only by just letting go of the butt of the gun. This is the method I prefer over all of the methods recommended above. Though I must say, that above all else, if the grip doesn’t work for you, then try something different. The Maglite’s button on the side is the selling point for this technique. for back-button lights, do whatever is comfortable and effective. It is much like a gun or a good suit. You need to find the style that fits you the best.
Sometimes you want your hands together to support the handgun while you fire, other times you want them separated so you don’t muzzle flag when you search.
Ideally you have a light on the weapon plus a handheld so you don’t have to muzzle flag.
But, I just don’t think instructing shooters to light up and silhouette your hand and weapon, and make shots without full support in a majority of situations makes too much sense.
Hey, thanks for the tactical flashlight ideas. I just got one and I can’t wait to take it on my next bike tour. great site by the way!
If you are not looking to spend a lot of cash on a flash light, I recommend a Cree. For 8 dollars or less you can get a 400 lumen light on Amazon. They are well made and blinding. Good gifts for your buddies, too.
Disagree with the eye index placement. If you must use a flashlight with your pistol a better flashlight position would be slightly above your head or off to the right or left depeding on which hand you use.
Having it at eye level provides a good target if the assailant also posses’ a firearm.
Sorry, As a Retire P/O with 21 yrs experience and more than one gun battle,you don’t want to put that light up by your face, . Alao I love these cop shows where they turn a corner with their gun leading the way.An invitation to disarm you,absolutely.The best sticking your finger in and tasting the Heroin to check the quality, can anyone say rat poison?If you need some real life advise, give me a holla.
Great article, chap! I personally use a flashlight with over 1000 lumens for this very purpose stored in my car; this one is as thick as a medium cigar. I had the chance to use it once to keep a drunk idiot at bay. When you have 1200 lumens flashing at you, it’s almost the equivalent of looking straight into a high-beam car light: one shant do it for very long unless you enjoy cataract surgery. Even with eyes closed, you get stars. It also has an attack crown with un-sanded edges to really allow the assailant to feel the impact. I’m a bit of a flashlight nerd and have some that shine up to 4600 lumens and are quite small in size. Thanks again for the article, I particularly had a blast with this one.
Just a fist wrapped around a solid metal flashlight is an impressive weapon. And one end or the other to the throat…devastating.
Since the pansy-ass govt won’t let us carry handguns or swords, a tac-flashlight is a great second.
Surefire makes a nice light if you want to splurge. If you aren’t the type to drop a few hundred on one, I recommend the Streamlight ProTac2L. It will burn the corneas of anything in its path, it is rugged, and at around $60 a hard deal to pass up.
To answer carry questions-I carry an inner waistband type holster for my trusty thunder stick and using a $5 sheet of kydex, I molded a sturdy, comfortable retention “holster” for my little light.
One thing that was taught to me in a tactical low light shooting class was to hold the light away from your head at about head height, or slightly higher. The Idea of not holding it close to your head was that people will tend to shoot tword the light, (as mentioned above in the section about turn on turn off move) thus if the light is right near your head you are more likely to be hit in the head by the bad guys rounds than if you keep the light away from your head.
In my opinion, the best tactical flashlight on the market: http://www.maglite.com/maglite_xl200_led.asp. Affordable, powerful, proven–and made in the U.S.A. The only downside to it is that it is a bit too large to carry in a pocket on a regular basis. One upside to it–and something that I have not seen mentioned here yet (sorry if I am mistaken)–is that it doesn’t use what are relatively hard to find batteries (i.e. the CR123 battery). In other words, thinking in terms of an emergency or worst case scenario (or even an ill prepared for camping trip), you want a flashlight whose power source can be easily found and replaced when it runs out. AAA batteries are readily available just about everywhere; CR123s not so much. The more exotic stuff is great for relaitvely limited or hobby use (indeed I have some
myself). However, if you are going to purchase just one, and/or find yourself in a situation in which space is limited (like in a camping, emergency, or “bug-out” bag), then you want a flashlight that is not going to become useless once the batteries you possess or can carry run out.
Brett and Kate–great site. Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the information. I never would have considered some of the great input concerning tactical lights had I not run into your site. I never imagined so much was involved in the use of Tactical Flashlights. They are definitely a great asset to have in a low-light situation but to use them as a defense tool to temporarily blind an assailant is a great idea. Do you think the weapon mounted lights are a good idea? Is it something to avoid because the light becomes a good target for your enemy to fire a disabling blow (as discussed in your blog above). I imagine there are many law enforcement personnel commenting on your site. It would be informative to get their take on this issue concerning weapon mounted lights vs, hand held techniques. I do agree that holding it near you head might be good in some situations but when an enemy has a gun… maybe not. Thanks for this cool site. Nice Idea. Gary
Well, in Chicago, it’s illegal to carry a gun outside (unless you’re police), so a “tactical situation” for me would’nt ionvolve a gun.
When a light is on, many adversaries will shoot at the light source. In your “recommended” technique, that means they will be shooting right at your head.
When I was a police officer, I was taught the first “not recommended technique above; it is not dangerous if you have good trigger discipline.
I was also taught a technique of holding your light hand out far from your body and shining the light in at the necessary angle. That way if anybody shoots at the light they are likely to completely miss you (unless they are an awful shot).
Great article though, I consider my light as important as my gun for self defense.
It is simple, if the bad guy has a gun and you are engaged at more than 15 feet you are better off with the light held away.
But if you are in a confined space such as a hallway or doorway inside you home of a small ally; or,
the bad guy has a knife; or
physical superiority you are much better off with the light held against your the head.
In the great majority of home invasions the invader does not have a gun. Again, not just most but the great majority. They have a knife, screwdriver, crowbar or physical superiority.
Home defenders moving though hallways, or doorways are much more likely to be physically struck, stabbed or have the gun grabbed if they have their arms out fully or mostly. They are also in no position to counter or defend against a blow to the head if both ands are gripping a gun or a gun and light held out.
In fact with even with NO flashlight handy you should enter a doorway or run a corner with one hand up and by your held as it is the best way to fend a blow.
In short if you in the woods and your opponent is armed with a projectile weapon, or in a battlefield, you should not use a light at all. If you are in you home forget everything taught at the range about stance and grip, instead keep the gun close to your upper abdomen gripping with one hand, and one hand UP by your head, flashlight or not! You have no fending leverage if your arm is out forward or to the side at 10 oclock
I think another merit of the eye-index technique is that it can be used for melee attack in addition to a “stamp.” With the flashlight on the side, that person can use the flashlight, assuming it is of solid construction, as a club. Right after blinding the person’s eyes, that defender can swing the flashlight right smash on its head. That blunt attack might knock the assailant unconscious. It is more accurate than the piercing “stamp” move.
As stated before, attaching a flashlight to a pistol is also a good idea. It frees up that person’s other hand for other uses. However, that person will need to have a lot of self-control to prevent accidental fire.
I am a big fan of the nitecore P25 ( http://www.buytacticalflashlights.com/Nitecore-Flashlights/Nitecore-P25 ) as it can be recharged from a USB cable, which means I can take it backpacking along with a small solar charging unit (which also works on my gps!) and never worry about not having light!.
I work in public safety. I do not agree with the “Eye Index”. Armed intruders/assailants tend to attack the source of the light. If its next to your head, you see where I am going with this. This is why we are no longer taught to rest the light on our shoulder anymore. I still use the Roger technique with great success, in keeping the light on target, and retention of my weapon.
I teach basic maneuvering, tactical team movement, and CQB basics to a variety of personnel. Clearly our opinions differ on carry technique, but I always preach keeping your light AWAY from your body or head in a situation that involves firearms.
Lets reverse the roles, and see if you can understand where I’m coming from…
Someone has entered your home, or a location you are protecting. They are armed, and have a light of their own. You see the light 10 meters or less in front of you. How will you select a target? In countless exercises I have seen nearly every client/trainee fire at the light.
We instruct our personnel to carry a light down against the chest with their weapon at the ready. When the time comes for target acquisition you hold the light out AWAY from the body, with an extended arm. This may adversely affect your accuracy when firing unsupported, but it greatly increases your chances of keeping all your blood in your body.