How to Build a Small Game Survival Snare

by A Manly Guest Contributor on March 29, 2012 · 50 comments

in Manly Skills, Self-Reliance, Survival

Editor’s note: This is a guest post from Creek Stewart of Willow Haven Outdoor.

I practice and learn survival skills not because I need them on a daily basis, but rather for the one day when I must use them to stay alive.  Survival is the intersection between knowledge and necessity.    The outcome in a survival scenario can be dramatically influenced by practicing survival skills before you need them.  One such skill that requires thoughtful practice is How to Build a Small Game Survival Snare.  A primitive make-shift snare can be used to trap and kill a variety of animals for food in a survival situation.  This basic concept can also be modified and used as a “man-trap” or “perimeter alarm”–both of which are commonly deployed in guerrilla warfare.

While constructing a survival snare is fairly simple, it is often oversimplified with vague instructions and limited photos.  By the time you finish reading this article you will know the who, what, why, when, where, and how of the simplest and most efficient survival snare known to man.  If your knowledge ever crosses paths with necessity, this may prove useful.

The Why

For short term survival (1-7 days), food is not a critical priority.  Shelter, water, fire, and signaling are typically more immediate concerns.  At some point, though, you must put calories on the human furnace or suffer the debilitating consequences of starvation.

To my knowledge there isn’t one single primitive culture, tribe, or people where meat is/was not a critical component of their diet.  Modern equipment, farming, transportation, food processing, supplements, and complex supply chains give us the option not to eat meat if we choose.  Remove these luxuries for an extended period of time and the calories from meat once again become necessary for survival.  It would be extremely difficult, if not impossible, to source enough calories in a primitive survival scenario by gathering wild plant edibles alone–especially in cold weather climates or seasons.

Time and energy conservation are both very important factors to consider in any survival situation.  This is precisely why snares are such an important survival tool.  Once constructed and set, a snare will allow you to focus on other survival priorities.  And, it will keep working even while you are sleeping.  With 10 snares you can be hunting in 10 different locations at the same time while expending ZERO energy.  You become a one man hunting party.  Snares are a survivor’s secret weapon.  Not only are snares incredibly reliable and effective, they also require very few resources to build–in materials, energy, and time.

The Who

Before you even think about spending time and energy on building and setting a snare, you must first determine whom (or in this case which animal) your snare is targeting.  For survival purposes, small game represents your best chance of success.  While the snare design I will show you can be scaled up to catch animals as large as deer, it is more practical to target small game animals such as rabbit, squirrel, and ground dwelling fowl such as quail or grouse.  This snare can also be modified to fish for you as well.  Not only are smaller game animals easier to catch and field dress, but you can set numerous small game snares with the same time and material resources it would cost you to set one larger snare.  Setting snares is a numbers game.  The more snares you set, the greater your odds of success.

The When and Where

This snare can be effective in virtually any climate and any environment on any continent.  It can be deployed any time of the year and is equally effective day and night.  From desert to rain forest, I can’t think of a place where you can’t use some version of it to catch small game.

With that said, placing random snares throughout the woods is foolish and a waste of time and energy.  Though they can be baited to draw in animals, snares are most effective when strategically placed in-line with existing small game trails.  As you will see in the HOW section of this article, the heart of this snare is a noose which should be positioned across a frequently traveled small game path or shelter entrance such as a den or burrow.

To be successful, you must read the forest or terrain in which you find yourself.  You must look for signs of small game traffic and activity.  These signs include scat (droppings), tracks, rubs, scratches, signs of feeding, shelter or burrow entrances, food and water sources, and well-traveled game trails.

I took a walk in the forest here at Willow Haven Outdoor and snapped a few photos of some telltale animal signs that should catch the eye of a passing survivor.  See if you can identify the small game activity in these photos below:

The best place for the snare I detail in the next section is across a well-traveled small game path.  These paths, called “runs,” typically lead from the nest, shelter, or den to water and food sources.  Animals are the ultimate survivors and also live by the survival code of energy conservation.  Consequently, several animals may travel the same trail or path on a regular basis.  Animals travel the path of least resistance and strategically placed snares along this path can be very effective.

Finally…The What and the How

There are literally hundreds of different snare sets and designs–some of which are overly complex.  If you only learn one snare design in your life, it should be what I call the Trigger Spring Snare.  I wish I could take credit for the design, but it dates back to the beginning of mankind and versions of it have been used by primitive people in all parts of the world.  It has been time-tested, field-tested and survival-tested.  It is my #1 GO-TO Survival Snare set.

The Trigger Spring Snare consists of 4 components which can be readily sourced in nearly any survival situation.  These components are:

  1. The Noose (made from some kind of cordage–preferably wire)
  2. The 2 Part Trigger (carved from wood)
  3. The Leader Line (also made from some kind of cordage)
  4. The Engine (typically a bent over sapling)

The Noose

The noose does exactly what you think–it nooses the animal.  The most effective noose material is wire.  There are many different types of wire that will work.  The wire must be flexible.  It cannot be too thick or brittle.  When set in the shape of a noose (shown later), it must tighten easily and quickly when pulled upon.  Some examples are:

  • Twisted copper strands from the inside of an everyday lamp or small appliance power cord
  • Picture hanging wire
  • Stripped wire from car or vehicle electrical systems
  • Craft wire
  • Headphone wire
  • Wire from a spiral bound note pad
  • An uncoiled spring (such as in a ballpoint click pen)
  • Wire reinforced bras
  • Wire from inside electronics such as toys, phones, and radios

If wire is unavailable, some kind of string or cord will have to do.  It must be strong enough to hold a 5-8 lb animal.  If it snaps under the force of a couple jerks between your fists then it probably won’t work well.

Here are several alternative cordage ideas:

  • The inner strands from 550 Parachute Cord
  • Shoe strings
  • Dental floss
  • Fishing line
  • Unwoven webbing
  • Strong stitching material such as what is used to sew together leather and outdoor goods such as purses, wallets, cell phone cases, belts, jackets, and backpacks

If no modern wire or cordage is available, there are many natural plants and tree bark fibers that can be fashioned into suitable cordage.  Several excellent cordage plants/trees are:

  • Milkweed
  • Dogbane
  • Stinging nettle
  • Many inner tree barks such as cedar and elm
  • Palm
  • Cattail

Below is a photo of several cords made from reverse wrapping plant and tree bark fibers.  Remember, primitive cultures used this snare for hundreds of years with no modern wire or rope.  It takes more time and knowledge but is certainly possible.

The average length of your noose cord needs to be 18-24 inches for most small game animals.  To construct your noose you need to make a small loop in one end about the diameter of a pencil.  With wire you can simple make the loop and twist the wire back on itself several times.

With string, simply fold the end back onto itself and tie an overhand knot to secure the loop.

Then, run the other end of the cord/wire through the loop to create your noose.  The tag end is then tied to your trigger as is detailed in the next section.

The Trigger and Leader Line

The trigger consists of 2 parts: the HOOK and the BASE.  As you can see in the diagram below, the LEADER LINE is tied to the top of the HOOK and the NOOSE is tied to the bottom of the HOOK.  The ENGINE (typically a bent over sapling) provides tension to the HOOK which is secured under the BASE–until an animal disengages it by pulling on the NOOSE.  The LEADER LINE from the HOOK to the ENGINE can be any type of cordage.  It needs to be strong enough to withstand the initial “spring jerk” and then the weight of the suspended (and struggling) animal.

Several Trigger Modifications

When it comes to this style of trigger, don’t limit yourself to one exact model.  The same result can be accomplished in many similar ways.  You may have to improvise in a survival scenario.  It is the principle that is important.  Below are several trigger modifications that I worked up to give you a few ideas.


This trigger style is simply carved from 2 hard wood sticks.  Notice the BASE of the trigger system that is staked into the ground.  The noose in the photo above is made from the inner strands of 550 paracord.  Below is another photo of a carved trigger snare.  This noose is made from the copper wires from inside an old lamp cord which makes an ideal noose material.  Notice how I’ve used little twigs to hold my noose in place.  This can be helpful to keep your noose exactly where you want it.


This trigger requires very little carving– simply find 2 sticks that branch how you need them and let nature provide your trigger system.  The noose in this photo is made from the fibers of a raffia palm tree.  This BASE is also staked into the ground.


Rather than having a BASE that is staked in the ground, the HOOK of this trigger system is secured on a peg or nail that you can place in a nearby log, stump, or tree.  I’ve even created triggers that have hooked onto nearby rock ledges.  This photo also features a “baited trigger.”  I have sharpened the bottom of the hook and stuck on a piece of bait (raisin) to lure an animal through the noose.  As soon as the bait is tampered with, the HOOK disengages.  Make sure the animal must put its head through the noose to access a baited trigger.

Fishing Modification

This same trigger snare principle can be used with a hook and line for fishing as well.  Instead of using a noose, attach your fishing line to the bottom of the HOOK TRIGGER.  When a fish pulls your line and disengages the trigger, the ENGINE will pull and set the hook in the fish’s mouth.  Make sure your TRIGGER HOOK is just barely set so that the slightest tug from a nibbling fish engages the ENGINE.  See the diagram below:

The Engine

Every environment is different and unique.  There may not be a sapling to bend over along a game trail.  Or, you may be in the middle of a prairie or field where there are no trees at all.  If so, you must improvise.  There are many ways to do this.  One way is to simply cut down a green sapling or branch from another area and stake it in the ground to use as an ENGINE.  Your LEADER LINE can also be weighted and run over a branch or make-shift tripod to serve the same purpose.  In the photo below I’ve weighted the LEADER LINE with a 10 pound rock that applies tension to the TRIGGER.  I used the bark from a root as the LEADER LINE and a NOOSE made from braided cattail leaves–this is a 100% primitive snare set.

In the set below, I used a similar principle except I erected a make-shift tripod to serve as an anchor point for the LEADER LINE.  Here, the LEADER LINE is a high visibility 550 Paracord.

Your ENGINE (whether a sapling, branch, or weighted system) should be powerful enough to suspend a small game animal in the air.  This helps to ensure a faster and more humane kill and also keeps your catch away from other predators who would certainly be very interested in a free meal.  If in doubt, you can test your snare ENGINE by using a 6-8 pound rock or log.


The NOOSE from this snare system can be an incredibly effective snare by itself–without a TRIGGER or ENGINE.  By securing the tag end of the NOOSE to a stake or tree and placing it across a burrow/nest entrance or a very well-traveled small game run, a trigger system may not even be necessary.  This is a very popular method for snaring rabbits.  It doesn’t get easier than this.  Be prepared, though, for a live animal once you return in many cases.  See the diagram below.

Directing the Traffic Flow

As I mentioned earlier, animals will typically follow the path of least resistance to conserve energy.  Use this to your advantage by arranging sticks, logs, dirt, rocks, or other objects in such a way that funnels the animal into your snare NOOSE.

Try not to disturb the area too much if possible.  The more natural you leave it the better.  Animals survive on INSTINCT and will react if something seems out of place.  The forest is their home and they know it by heart.  Leave as little trace of your activity as possible.


I’ll end this article with a list of Survival Snaring Guidelines that I follow and for you to consider.

  • Survival snares are for survival situations.  Primitive improvised snares are otherwise illegal.
  • The more snares you set, the greater your chances of success.
  • If moving from an area, disable all snares you’ve set.
  • Check your snare sets several times each day if possible–especially in warm weather.  Your catch can spoil or be scavenged by other predators.  And, if you have a live animal, you don’t want it to suffer longer than it has to.
  • If you kill it, eat it.  A diseased animal is the exception.
  • Remains from previously snared animals make excellent bait for other snares–especially entrails.
  • Meat is not the only survival resource that can be gained from snaring an animal.  The hide can be used.  Most animals have enough brains to brain-tan their own hide.  Bones can be used as tools, hooks, and spear points.  Intestines, sinew, and rawhide can be used for lashings and cordage.  Use as much of the animal as possible.  It has given its life for you.

I keep a handful of ready-made wire snares in my survival kit and Bug Out Bag.  They are extremely lightweight and take up very little space.  And, wire is a multifunctional kit item that can be used for a variety of tasks.

The key to survival is not about mastering a single survival skill, but rather about being well-rounded in a variety of skills that can help provide you with basic needs–and FOOD is certainly one of these in an extended survival scenario.  Energy conservation is very important and using snares to secure food is an intelligent use of time and resources.  I hope you’ve taken away something useful from this post.

Remember, it’s not IF but WHEN,



Creek Stewart is a Senior Instructor at the Willow Haven Outdoor School for Survival, Preparedness & Bushcraft.  Creek’s passion is teaching, sharing, and preserving outdoor living and survival skills. Creek is also the author of the book Build the Perfect Bug Out Bag: Your 72-Hour Disaster Survival Kit. For more information, visit Willowhaven Outdoor.

{ 50 comments… read them below or add one }

1 nate March 29, 2012 at 8:14 pm

Gonna have to say while this is a useful skill it is pretty much not worth the effort. For less than 50 bucks I ended up with a much better solution that always traps if you know what you’re doing and what animals you’re going after.

it’s called a ton of conibear traps. The 110s are wonderful for smaller critters like rabbits and squirrels and the like. The 220s easily take out coons and other animals like that. A 330 would kill my 45 pound dog in a heart beat.

2 Jeff March 29, 2012 at 8:35 pm

I can’t say I know what a conibear trap is, but I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t have one on me in a survival situation…..

3 NightHawkInLight March 29, 2012 at 8:54 pm

Very nice design. Simple and effective. For most small game no spring or counterweight is required, as they will tighten the noose themselves. The wire loop only needs to be tied to a firm stake. The spring does offer a slight bit more assurance, as well as being more humane in offering the animal a quicker death, but is not necessary if the survivor is short on cordage.

4 Ron March 29, 2012 at 8:58 pm

I understand this is for survival situations and meant to be carried out in extreme circumstances of life or death, using limited gear from one’s “bug out bag”. Of course there are quality conibears, footholds, and snares out there for the modern trapper to use in sport. One important point this article fails to mention is regarding game and fish laws. Especially if telling people to practice this skill before being in the situation. Every state and various types of lands/agencies have their own trapping laws. Before one “practices” or constructs these snares, they need to insure they are properly licensed, following proper game and fish trapping laws, insuring such “homemade” traps are even legal, and trapping on lands where trapping is legally allowed. Otherwise, simply practicing this simple survival skill in a non-survival situation might land one in a great deal of trouble with numerous violations and costly citations. Even land in jail! For example: seasons, improper escapes closures on snares, untagged traps, illegal traps, trapping without a license, fishing without a license, etc. Furthermore, poaching is never the manly thing to do.

5 Richard March 29, 2012 at 9:38 pm

Many years ago. I had set a snare to catch whatever it was digging / living under a shed. One night it tripped the snare, though did catch it. the animal sprayed all the grass and tree near by, My luck we approached from the upwind side, sans smelling anything until we were in the middle of it. …The smell of skunk lingers for several days.

6 Robert March 29, 2012 at 10:01 pm

Masterfully presented sir, and common sense tells me not to “practice” in the wild. Practice making and assembling at home, and keep an eye out in the wild for placement. Thank you.

7 Jared March 30, 2012 at 12:42 am

Always thought this is what the 20lb test fishing line in my kit was for

8 Jamil Tucker March 30, 2012 at 1:31 am

For someone with an Average IQ of 100 this is pretty hard for me to understand. Why not just dig a deep hole than put a blanket over it than put vegetables on that blanket? You could catch anything.

9 Stephen Wood March 30, 2012 at 2:19 am

I own a .22 for any time I’d ever need to hunt small game — but I plan on only using it for cans. This guide is good for any time you’re trapped without your gear in a strange place. Also, I think the fishing modification is quite clever. I never thought of that. I’ll have to try it sometime.

10 Noah March 30, 2012 at 7:45 am

Another very thorough and well done post!

11 Fox March 30, 2012 at 8:08 am

I need to create a bug out bag, it’s mentioned so many times here.

12 Simon March 30, 2012 at 8:35 am

For anyone truly interested in learning more about trapping, I recommend “The Complete Book of Trapping” by Bob Gilsvik. It’s kind of like the bible of trapping. It’s an older book, but you can probably find a copy on ebay. It’s full of illustrations for how to build traps and snares for almost any time of small game.

13 Chase Christy March 30, 2012 at 9:12 am

Just a few hundred more of these posts and I will be ready for that backpacking trip I’ve always.

I hope I never really need this information, but thanks for it none the less.

14 DAN March 30, 2012 at 11:37 am

OUTSTANDING! Very nice. My dad tought me and my little brother as little boys. Being native americans and boys it was kind of expected of us to get small game to bring to our grandmother to cook up.

15 Derrick March 30, 2012 at 11:45 am

I would love to give it out to one of the youth I mentor as a high school graduation gift.

16 Greg March 30, 2012 at 1:38 pm

I have a 13 yr old son that I would give this box set to. I am very lucky to have a son that shares the same interests that I have and the contents of these books will help him grow up to be a better man, father and husband.

17 Steve M March 30, 2012 at 2:07 pm

Thank you Creek for another fantastic missive. Especially liked the idea of “hunting” in multiple locations, with light simple tools, while conserving energy. I believe it helps answer many of the questions above.

18 Daniel March 30, 2012 at 8:14 pm

Good post. If you want a great book on snares, fish traps, and many other manly survival skills pickup “Survival Poaching” by Ragnar Benson (a pseudonym), written by a respected businessman who fed his family for 40 years (at the time of writing) through his techniques, such as snares. That book is one of my most prized possessions.

19 James Petzke March 31, 2012 at 8:04 pm

Great article, I’ve never learned how to make a snare before, this is really helpful. I have a feeling that in a survival situation this would be extremely effective, especially if you could set up a large bunch of snares.

20 Dra April 1, 2012 at 3:56 am

A classic skill that is massively undervalued. A small section of wire and some clever thinking can drastically increase your food reserves, while reducing the energy you loose gathering it. The only critique on the article itself…You might want to add the animals the signs point to in the hidden text, where you say what it is. Useful information to have.

For the individual who mentioned digging a pit trap and using a blanket and food…You’re in a survival situation where you need to conserve energy. Digging a pit trap large enough to capture any game requires energy, and a shovel or other reliable digging implement. Further, if you have sufficient vegetables to use as bait, why don’t you eat those? And as an added point, that blanket would do you a good deal more good used for sleeping in. It’s a massive expenditure of calories and time, for no sure purpose.

21 dannnyb278 April 2, 2012 at 2:03 pm

not to mention, i bet a lot of small game could clime right out of a hole dug into the ground.

22 Phillip Pirrip April 3, 2012 at 8:18 am

As a vegetarian, I will have no use for this, except for when I’m picked out for the Hunger Games, and the odds are not in my favor.

23 Curt April 5, 2012 at 3:12 pm

I used this type of trigger a lot in the Army. Works very well for man traps and early warning as stated. I have not used much for a snare though. More of this type of article would be very nice to see!

24 John April 7, 2012 at 1:21 am

Conibear traps work alright, if they are legal to use in your area above water. The snare can be made without having to carry around a bunch of heavy metal traps. A roll of wire can be carried in a pocket and you’ll barely notice it. You can make several snares and not be carrying around an extra 10lbs. If you want to take up the extra room for something you may not need, a rat trap or two works just as well.

25 Flavo April 17, 2012 at 4:36 am

Than you for these awesome instructions. Man vs Wild, Survivor Man and the like go over this info so quickly.

26 NH April 18, 2012 at 7:01 pm

With those snare wires, its really important to keep the wire smooth. In the lead photo, there are so many kinks its unlikely that this would actually close on an animal’s neck before it got its head out. Smoothing a wire is as easy as working it back and forth on a smooth, round tree limb. Also, including a locking loop will give you better odds of having it close and stay closed, and more likely to actually kill the animal as it struggles. My .02.

27 Artemus April 18, 2012 at 11:17 pm

My favorite book with a huge variety of traps is ‘Trap Building’ (modern and primitive) by Burt-Munro-Massey & Stromberg. Purchase through Stromberg’s chick catalog.

28 Fiona November 7, 2012 at 1:06 pm

Though you are clearly smarter than the rest of us, please explain, if you are in a survival situation, why you have a blanket and why you don’t eat the vegetables.

29 Josh November 10, 2012 at 8:21 am

First of all very good information here. Loved it and will be teaching myself then the kids. Second Ron please keep that shit to yourself, why is it every single sight I to like this there is a crybaby like you? Of course we all know by now to give uncle Sam whats his and anybody who is an outdoorsman will practice before putting something like this in the field. Im sure nobody here needs to talked to as if being talked down to or scolded. You would be a good cop, you have no problem acting as if your above everybody around you.

30 MichaelF November 10, 2012 at 5:28 pm

First, thank you very much for this info. You have detailed it very nicely and have made it step by step for the younger people and those with less experience with trapping. 2 weeks out of every year for the past 11 years I travel and strand myself in the wild. I take many things with, except a gun, and survive on my own. I always have my GPS and SAT phone just in case, but by the grace of god, I have not needed them. I have learned many things but still use this type of setup. It is effective, easy, and simple. It does not take a lot of effort was is a huge thing when you are “surviving”. I suggest
doing this, even if it is just once. It is amazing to see how thing are and you will be amazed at the end of just how capable you really are. You will truly feel good about yourself. I wouldn’t do this alone the first time unless you do a lot of studying and reading. Also, please, please, please, don’t just go out in the woods and start grabbing things that look edible. Just be cause something looks good doesn’t mean it is safe to eat. Also, I can stress enough…. Make sure you cook your meat all the way through. Yes, humans can eat raw meat… However, the are parasites that can be in meat that can make you sick. One other pointer I will give… Do not just catch and only eat lean animals. Rabbits, are an easy catch but have almost no fat on them. This leads to what is called protein poisoning. Humans need to have a source of fat. If all you can find is rabbits then … This is going to sound rough… You need to eat the brains, eyes, liver, etc… (do not eat the intestines or colon), this will help provide fat to delay or prevent protein poisoning.
I hope this helps. Best of luck. Remember, life is adventure..have fun doing it!

31 Calen November 16, 2012 at 3:59 pm

Thanks. Good information that I’m going to practice with.

32 Matt December 28, 2012 at 11:15 am

@Fiona: Your comment just made me LOL and made my day.

Great article!

33 todd December 28, 2012 at 8:00 pm

but what if you dont have that conibear trap i think all though it might be useful the knowledge of the art of trapping and snaring and what to use if you have nothing with you i think is invaluable

34 Seth January 12, 2013 at 9:24 am

Great job on the instructions. I grew up in the woods and swamps of Louisiana and spent some time as a Boy Scout. Then I spent 20 years in the Navy. Too many rules have been introduced to enforce the ethics taught by ture Outdoorsmen. Eat what you kill. Leave no trace of your passing. Don’t be greedy or wasteful, take only what you need. Thanks for the best small snare instructions I’ve seen.

35 chuck January 20, 2013 at 12:02 am

Thanks, This taught me a lot. It also shows variation to the trap. I was a country kid, but trapping wasn’t taught by my Dad, just gun hunting.

36 Rick January 23, 2013 at 9:49 am

awesome instructions ive never thought to incorperate snare trapping and fishing. Deffinatly gonna do that my next hike

37 Jessica February 8, 2013 at 7:00 pm

I’m still a little bit confused on how to make a snare to catch fish.

38 Michael April 9, 2013 at 1:18 pm

Great article. I have just started setting up a light weight bug out kit. I just got a nice KA-BAR USMC knife and it will work great for carving out triggers.

I just ended up here to get a quick idea of setting snare traps and your article gave me just about everything I need to know for my first practice test. I’m going to try the fishing mod too, that’s a great idea.

Let’s see now I need to add the following to my bug out kit: 1000 cans of Skyline Chili, a chain saw, Justin Beiber posters and CDs, 500 feet of bubble wrap, and the Twilight collection in hardback.

I’ll be set then. ;)

39 charles May 23, 2013 at 1:12 pm

can also use the plastic tent pegs for the trigger(hook and base), just put a hole in one of them . dual purpose on the tent pegs as extras wont weigh that much.

40 Markwell June 21, 2013 at 3:57 am

This is an amazing guide!

Loving the pictures provided.
Thank you for making it.
Regards, Mark

41 Renee July 4, 2013 at 6:45 am

Very useful piece of knowledge. Had my kids practice making these. Here’s a 14 year old thought – tie something small but colorful if you have can to the tip of the engine so you can see it from a distance.

42 handy Andy July 12, 2013 at 12:51 am

I’ve been in the woods a time or two, I think what your doing is awesome. More people should be more creative and resourceful. However, time will prove those that are prepared will survive. Keep up the awesome work. Oh btw you’re right, it’s when not if.

43 Xero July 24, 2013 at 10:07 pm

Make sure you all check with your local hunting and fishing regulations before setting all of these traps your thinking about, Lol. – Northern Minnesota Trapper (Rabbit, Bird, Bobcat)

44 Kary August 5, 2013 at 10:20 pm

Is it illegal if I wanted to just set up a couple to see if it’d work? I would just beTrying to catch small game that doesn’t have a hunting season on my own land?

45 Tsandi Crew August 18, 2013 at 8:33 am

You are right! This is the best and simplest explanation I’ve ever seen! Thank you so much!

46 Bill January 14, 2014 at 10:01 am

Hows it feel to get schooled by a person who to your rate of thinking is not as smart as you! This is survival !! Fiona awesome response to “the brains” comment. Very good article.

47 vik March 20, 2014 at 2:47 pm

i haven’t had to use a snare in years. the examples here are great. i was fortunate to be raised by an ARMY Ranger dad and he showed me, my sisters, and friends how to set these simple traps. it’s fun to go camping without bringing supplies and no worries about food. the fishing set up isn’t one i’ve seen too many folks show. Great lesson

48 Chuck March 22, 2014 at 4:02 pm

Great article! Simple, straigh forward and with pictures that show you exactly how to set them up.

I especially liked the fish set!


49 Tom March 27, 2014 at 12:57 pm

This is a great lesson. I really appreciate this site and will share with my son.

50 rich April 23, 2014 at 12:53 pm

as i was laying in my tent last night,i came up with a snare in my mind.close to the same as the ones pictured.gotta do something about the coons in my camp area.

Leave a Comment

Previous post:

Next post:

Site Meter