Understanding the Dress Shirt: Custom Shirt Giveaway

by Antonio on April 12, 2009 · 338 comments

in Dress & Grooming, Style


A man’s dress shirt can elegantly frame his face during a presentation and later absorb his perspiration during a tough round of questioning. It can play a supporting role by enhancing his sport jacket or it can stand alone and be the centerpiece of his outfit. The dress shirt ranges in price from the $9.99 Wal-Mart polyester special to over $600 for a name brand custom shirt. But why would you want to read an entire article about dress shirts?

Because details matter. In any given day we only speak with a small percentage of the people we see; the shirt you wear, in the absence of a jacket, is the most powerful signal you are using to non-verbally communicate with those around you. Your shirt, whether you like it or not, is speaking for you; make sure it’s saying what you intend.

What is a Dress Shirt

A proper dress shirt is a button-up shirt with a collar, long sleeves, and wrist cuffs. It is usually made from a cotton fabric woven and dyed into various, non-obtrusive patterns and colors. By altering these characteristics, a dress shirt can either send the message its wearer is ready for sport or ready to meet the president.

Dress Shirt Fit

Most men wear dress shirts that do not fit them properly. The problem is that ready made garments are made to fit many; as a result, they fit no one perfectly. We all compromise somewhere if a shirt fits us in the neck it fails us in the sleeve length; if it fits well in the sleeves, it billows out around the stomach. So the fit  I’ll describe here is generally only achievable on a custom shirt or one that’s close to fitting and then tailored by a skilled hand.

A well fitted dress shirt should first and foremost be comfortable; this is different for every man. Larger men are usually complimented by a looser fit while petite and thin men are complimented by a more form cut. In general, though, a shirt should:

  • Allow two fingers in the collar when buttoned.
  • Be tight enough around the wrist so that the cuffs must be unbuttoned to slip them off.
  • Have long enough sleeves so that you can raise your arms like wings and not pull the cuffs down the forearm; they should be short enough so that you don’t have more than 1 inch of fabric bunching near the cuff when your arms hang.
  • Shoulder points that extend to the end of the shoulder and no farther.
  • Have room in the chest and waist to pinch out 1-3 inches of fabric (depending on fit desired).

Dress Shirt Fabric

Cotton. The undisputed king of shirt fabrics, cotton has been the choice of those in the know for centuries. A finely woven cotton fabric exhibits all the properties a man could want from a garment worn close to the body, good heat & moisture conduction, durability, smoothness, and the ability to take shape when ironed.

Man-Made Fibers. Although they do not exhibit the same desirable properties as cotton, man made fibers have made a huge impact on the shirt scene due to their ability to do an acceptable job at a rock bottom price. Often wrinkle and stain resistant, these fibers have and will continue to play a major role in menswear. Although I recommend staying away from shirts with more than 50% man made fiber, for the budget minded, they may be a viable alternative.

Silk. A luxury fabric easily recognizable because of its sheen and light drape, it is not recommended for most as, the maintenance costs are high and long term durability low. But that’s just my opinion!

Dress Shirt Color


White – The most common shirt color; historically it has dominated the scene and was initially the only choice for a gentleman. The lack of color on a man’s collar and cuffs signified he did not have to do dirty work; colored shirts were looked upon with suspicion as it was assumed they were colored to hide stains. To this day, white still reigns as the most formal color, and its popularity has safely placed it among the iconic garments a man can wear. Where ever you may be, a man can safely assume a white shirt will never be out of place.

Blue – Blue’s dominance has more to do with its ability to compliment most men’s complexions rather than heritage. The popularity of blue exploded in the United States as more and more off-the-rack manufactures looked for colors and patterns that would sell. Today the color firmly holds a place as a safe alternative to white. And unfortunately, this is often the extent of the variety found in a man’s dress shirt collection.

Other Colors – Pink, gold, lavender, off-white, forest green, and even red, just a few of the multitude of colors available to the man who is willing to walk a different path. Whether these colors dominate the dress shirt, or highlight the pattern woven into it, they can compliment every complexion out there. And with less than 10% of the shirt wearing population even dabbling into these shades, the man who masters wearing them can easily set himself apart in a room of like dressed men.



Solid – The simplest and most formal pattern, yet the most versatile. A solid shirt’s defers attention away from the color (unless it is gaudy) and instead helps a man better display the style and fit of his garment. And solid doesn’t always mean solid; different weaves can slyly give the impression of monotony from a distance only to reveal their true nature up close. A solid white poplin fabric has a very different look and feel from a solid white twill or herringbone.

Stripe – Most of us can’t go wrong with a classic blue on white, but consider adding certain accent colors such as red or pink to liven up the hues in the face. This pattern looks especially good with a solid colored suit.

Check – Historically the purpose of the check was to signify a wearer’s background. Today, most men are intimidated to wear such a pattern with a suit as they think it will appear overpowering.  It won’t, as long as you remember not to mix like patterns; a checked shirt with a solid suit and striped tie are a great combination. However, it is the least formal pattern and should be worn carefully in business on the US East Coast and abroad.

Dress Shirt Style

The Shirt Collar

The purpose of a shirt collar is to properly balance and frame a man’s face. It’s the most visible part of a shirt when wearing a jacket and because of it’s proximity to the face, plays a very large role in determining the formality and use of the shirt. For this article we will only talk about turndown collars and its two major variants, the point and spread.

collar-straight-pointPoint Collars – The most common collar style seen in the US is the point collar; found on 95% of off-the-rack dress shirts, it is cut so that the collar points are reasonably close together with the collar angle being at or less than 60 degrees. The advantage of this collar style is that longer, more closely set points tend to draw the eye down which elongates the face. Unfortunately, most off-the-rack point collars seek the middle ground and do not have a small enough angle or long enough points to reap the full rewards of this effect.

collar-spreadSpread Collars – The second style is the spread or “cutaway” collar. These collars have the points “cut away” thus the name, revealing more of the upper shirt area; typically we see these collars with angles greater than 90 degrees. Spread collars are excellent for the gentleman with a medium to long shaped face, as they do the opposite of the point and spread out a man’s features.

Shirt Cuffs

Besides the collar, the shirt’s cuffs are the only visible parts of a shirt when a jacket is worn; they are divided into two types, button (casual to formal) and French (formal).


Button Cuffs – Button cuffs are single cuffs which wrap around the arm and are buttoned into place. These are the cuffs most commonly found on ready made shirts. Button cuffs may have a single button or may be adjustable, with two buttons side-by-side. Some have two buttonholes and two vertical buttons- a more formal option often called the “barrel cuff.” Button cuffs may also have a small button on the sleeve, between the cuff and the end of the cuff opening, intended to prevent the area from opening and exposing the gentleman’s wrist.


French Cuffs – French cuffs are the most formal option, yet are perfectly appropriate for daily wear in many industries such as finance. The French cuff is a double cuff, folded back and fastened with cufflinks to create a distinctive and distinguished appearance. Cufflinks must always be worn – though there are more subtle options available, such as fabric knots – so the gentleman must be prepared to keep a reasonable selection on hand.

Dress Shirt Buttons


Most buttons today are made of plastic, a suitable material for the job asit is inexpensive and fairly strong. However, if a low quality resin is used, the base of your buttons will crack, and they may break within a year. An eloquent alternative to plastic is Mother of Pearl. Not actually pearl, these buttons are made from shell and are so hard that they can break needles. They are only found on higher end clothing today because of their cost and tendency to disintegrate over time when exposed to harsh detergents.

Closing Comments

This article could go on; we didn’t even get into monograms, pockets, split yokes, the placket, gussets, pattern matching, collar stays, and back style. For those interested in more, please visit A Tailored Suit’s Style Guide or the resources we listed in The Art of Manliness’s best online style links.

Matching a Tie With Your Dress Shirt

Matching your dress shirt with a tie and suit can be tricky business. Here’s a guide on how to match your tie with a dress shirt and suit.

The Contest

The Art of Manliness and A Tailored Suit have teamed up to give one lucky reader a hand-made custom dress shirt valued at $149. To enter you need to leave a comment describing your ideal dress shirt and specify 1) your fabric choice (include a reference #), 2 ) collar style, 3) cuff type,  and 4)breast pocket style. This information can readily be found within A Tailored Suit’s online Build Your Garment tool.  All comments must be submitted by Friday, April 17 at 10PM CST. The winner will be announced on Saturday, April 18, 2009.

Written by
Antonio Centeno & the Team at A Tailored Suit

101 Mike Dodge April 13, 2009 at 7:37 am

1. #4-1-3

2. Straight Point Collar

3. Square Edge French Cuff

4. No pocket

102 Fabio April 13, 2009 at 7:43 am

Great Contest and just a fantastic – and very much needed- website! I have already introduced my nine year old son to the joys and insights of AoM.

My ideal shirt is one that helps subtly distinguish me and is one that isn’t readily seen on many other men. To wit, a shirt like that would be the following:

Fabric #4-6-65
Curved Spread Collar
Contoured French Cuffs
No pocket
Panel Front
Centered Box Pleat
Regular Fit

103 Christopher Maurer April 13, 2009 at 7:53 am

The ideal dress shirt should look formal but comfortable enough that there’s no rush to get it off at the end of the work day, and one would enjoy wearing it for the rest of the evening. Here’s what I’d go for:

Fabric: #4-6-69
Collar Style: Spread Collar
Cuff Type: French
Breast Pocket Style: Square Pocket, Left Breast

104 Travis Marshall April 13, 2009 at 8:03 am

I have a really hard time finding shirts that fit me. I’m a large man, with broad shoulders and a big chest. Buying most shirts off the rack means either too small a neck, or a huge, blousey mess in my mid-section.

I’ve been thinking about custom shirts for a while now…

Ideal shirt:

Fabric #4-6-79
Straight points collar
One button rounded edge cuff
No breast pocket

105 Richard Deatherage April 13, 2009 at 8:22 am

Most of the time I do like cotton best, however depending on the shirt I have found some blends very nice. I recommend that all men where a tee shirt at all times under the shirt. Especially in the summer. Nothing looks worse that a sweaty shirt during a business meeting.

I would select Ref # 4-6-71for my shirt.

The collar I would select is pointed. I really like the way the spread looks but at 5’10″ and 205 lbs. it is just not happening.

Cuff, french by all means. Got some great links and I like to show them off, so remember when you order you get the sleeves long enough to show approx. one half inch at the wrist.

Pocket, for me a must. I do by them with out if I really like the shirt. Not that I much use the pocket but it is there if I need it.

106 Sean Elliott April 13, 2009 at 8:23 am

Ditto on hard to find shirts with a good fit (but I’m a skinny guy, so most shirts have too much room).

Fabric #4-8-89
Narrow Straight Point collar
Contoured French Cruff
No breast pocket

107 Greg A. April 13, 2009 at 8:23 am

Fabric: #4-8-28
Collar type: Narrow Straight Point
Cuff type: Two Button Rounded Edge Cuff
Breast pocket: No Pocket
Front: Panel Front
back: Centered Box Pleat

108 Ryan April 13, 2009 at 8:29 am

I like a traditional looking white or light blue shirt with a subtle movement in pattern for differentiation. The shirts pair well with a variety of suits and ties, as well as without a tie.

1) 4-6-68 (light blue herringbone)
2) Regular Business Collar
3) Two Button Rounded Edge Cuff
4) Rounded Pocket

109 Jay April 13, 2009 at 8:32 am


Straight point collar
One Button Cut Corner Cuff

No pocket, regular front style
centered box pleat
loose fit

that’s my take on the dress shirt

110 Chris April 13, 2009 at 8:38 am

I for one have to go to formal events often, so a good ol’ white french cuff with a fly front is perfect in my opinion.

Fabric: #4-6-64
Collar: Straight Point Collar
Cuff: Square Edge French Cuff
Breast Pocket Style: None
Front Shirt Style: Covered Panel Front Style

111 verysexymen April 13, 2009 at 8:43 am

well i’mnot a guy but I love to see a men in french cuffs. Men options are so much morelimited than women when it comes to accessories to dress up why not go for the cuff links to add a bit of pizzaz.

My son who is 16 wears a neck size of 151/2 and sleeve length of 35. Not an easy combination to find. But how did I know this? I got him measured by a consultant in Macy’s. It just wouldn’t do to buy size L.

Dads and moms should get the young ones started early on the road to good grooming.The Art of Manliness does a great job in helping them to do this. Bravo!

112 Todd April 13, 2009 at 8:45 am

My perception of a fine shirt is that unless you had someone take your measurements, you have to compensate for the shirt’s inaccuracies to your body and cover up the shirt with a jacket or feel self-conscious.

Not everyone is made of money like Brad Pitt (which is the person I think of when I think of a man who can wear a suit better than anyone) and can’t afford to always be so finely dressed. In addition, there are many men that don’t have the opportunities to dress their best. I myself, have been to more funerals than weddings, and certainly am not a distinguished member of a upper echelon of some social strata that requires one to look their best at all times.

So, whenever I am at a fine restaurant or wedding, I try my best to show my character and sophistication by wearing the mish-mash that I manage to pull together from what the department stores have and the one suit I own. Now reading this article has given me a better knowledge of what to look for, but I can’t afford to make it tailored each time. Yet, I know that you don’t have to have a closet full of clothes, it just takes a few pieces and a lot of confidence.

In this case, I designed something I thought would be great with a dark gray suit or on its own:

Pattern: #4-6-40
Collar: Classic Spread
Cuff: Two Button Cut Square Edge
Pocket: None
Front: Regular
Back: Centered Box Pleat
Monogram: None
Fit: Form fit
Special: Soft fabric lining the inside collar to counter chaffing

Thank you, and please keep the posts coming. I’ve had a lot of success in improving my confidence and keeping my manhood in check since reading your site.

113 vince April 13, 2009 at 8:45 am

Straight Point
2 Button Corner Cut

114 Nathan April 13, 2009 at 8:58 am

My ideal shirt is made from a light fabric such as #4-2-1, classic business white. Button cuffs, a breast pocket, and gray buttons. I could wear one every day all summer long.

115 DbA April 13, 2009 at 9:01 am

To enter you need to leave a comment describing your ideal dress shirt and specify
1) your fabric choice (include a reference #),
2) collar style,
3) cuff type, and
4)breast pocket style.

My ideal dress shirt would get me a nice promotions (with a sizable increase in pay and decrease in actual hours of work, thus allowing me more time for family and some classes). I think I found the formula (which you will find cooresponds to your questions):

1) Fabric choice: Twil Pink (4-6-78)
2) Collar style: Medium Spread Collar (I have a long face – but don’t want another too extreme)
3) Cuff type: One button convertible cuff – simple, practical, versatile
4) Breast pocket style: none – I never use it and it looks cleaner with out it.

I think this is a powerful, but approachable choice!

116 Jonathan Wondrusch April 13, 2009 at 9:04 am

Fabric Type: #4-6-2
Collar: Medium Spread
Cuffs: Contoured French
Pocket: None

117 Chris April 13, 2009 at 9:07 am

Awesome article. I am leaving the military after 23 years of service where the wardrobe choices were pretty easy to make. I have enjoyed this article immensely as it made me consider my personal style. That being said here is my ideal shirt:

Fabric: 4-8-86
Collar: Classic Spread
Cuff: Barrel
Pocket: Diamond on left

Thank you for the article and your generosity.


118 Justin Nale April 13, 2009 at 9:14 am

These look like very well made shirts. My custom build would be form fitting for my slim frame and would include:

1.) Farbric: White herringbone 4-6-64 (Classic style)
2.)Collar: Medium Spread Collar (For my slender face)
4.)Cuff: Square Edge French Cuff (I enjoy the detail a nice pair of cufflinks shows)
4.)Breast Pocket: None (As stated, much more streamlined)


119 Khürt April 13, 2009 at 9:14 am

Fabric: 4-6-85
Classic Button Down Collar
One Button Rounded Edge Cuff
Rounded Pocket

I normally order my cotton dress shirts from Lands’ End. I can specify neck and sleve length and collar type and not much else. However, pricing is a lot less (about $50).

120 Grant April 13, 2009 at 9:25 am

Finding the perfect fitting dress shirt can be a pain in the butt for me. I’m 6’4″ and trim, so the big & tall store shirts that carry garments that fit in the sleeves are massive around the midsection. Meanwhile shirts that fit in the torso have sleeves that are way too short. I’ve found that Jos. A. Bank gives me the best fit and they have great sales from time to time, but anyway… on to my perfect shirt:

Perfect custom shirt:

Fabric: ##4-6-64
Collar type: Medium Spread Collar
Cuff type: One Button Rounded Edge Cuff
Breast pocket: rounded pocket

121 Joshua April 13, 2009 at 9:26 am

Essential Business #4-2-2
Straight Point Collar
Rounded Edge French Cuff
Left Breast Diamond Cut Pocket

Also, a Centered Box Pleat, if you’d be so kind.

122 Viking White April 13, 2009 at 9:29 am

My ideal shirt makes me feel I am the leader in the room. Retired recently from the military – where you look like every one else and the rank on your sleeve shows who’s the ‘big cheese’ – I want the shirt that’s commands the room without saying a word.

Fabric: #4-6-68

Collar type: Medium Spread collar

Cuff type: Square Edge French Cuff

Breast pocket: none

123 Ted Slampyak April 13, 2009 at 9:34 am

This was fun putting together! Thanks for this contest — and for the excellent post on the Dress Shirt. I enjoyed it.

My ideal shirt looks like this:

1) White & Blue striped fabric #4-6-29

2) Rounded Collar (White collar, even though the shirt fabric is blue & white! Nice!)

3) Rounded French Cuff (White — see above)

4) No Breast Pocket

Wow! That’s a shirt!

124 Daniel Richardson April 13, 2009 at 9:42 am

My ideal shirt would be a jazzed up formal office piece which, with the undoing of a few buttons, wouldn’t look out of place in any trendy big city bar.

Fabric: #4-8-30
Collar type: Medium Spread Collar
Cuff type: Two button cut corner cuff
Breast pocket: No pocket (Shirts are all about aesthetics so lets keep it streamlined!)

125 Kurt April 13, 2009 at 9:43 am

This is a wonderful article, and I always enjoy exploring atailoredsuit.com
I would go with something elegant, with class in the details.

Fabric # 4-7-88.
Straight point collar.
Contoured French cuff.
Diamond cut pocket.
Panel front, and plain back.

126 Cameron A April 13, 2009 at 9:47 am

Fabric: #4-6-52
Collar type: Straight Point Style
Cuff type: Two Button Square Edge
Breast pocket: None

127 Nicholas Richards April 13, 2009 at 9:57 am

My Ideal Shirt:
Fabric: 4-6-82
Collar: Classic Spread
Cuff: Rounded Edge French
Pocket: Left Square

Hope I win, I’ve never owned a really nice dress shirt and I could use one as I’m graduating from college soon, have to look sharp for those interviews!

128 Jeremy April 13, 2009 at 9:58 am

Ahh, a contest that’s right up my alley. Since I wear a suit every day, I can never have enough quality dress shirts. I could use a few more stripes in my life, though.

1. 4-6-37
2.Regular Business Collar
3.Contoured French Cuff
4. Diamond cut pocket

129 Patrick April 13, 2009 at 10:07 am

Ah, nice! Just got back from buying a shirt, actually. My ideal shirt would be:

1. Fabric: #4-2-1
2. Collar: Straight point collar
3. Cuff: Square edge french cuff
4. Pocket: square pocket

130 Bill Tibbetts April 13, 2009 at 10:10 am

Nice post. Up to par, as usual!

1. White 4-6-79
2. Classic spread collar
3. One button corner cuff
4. No pocket
5. Regular front
6. plain back

I prefer the clean and crisp

131 Jeff April 13, 2009 at 10:16 am

Fabric: #4-6-85
Collar: Wide Spread Collar:
Cuff: Contoured French Cuff
Pocket: Square Pocket

Thanks! BTW, this blog is awesome (hope that helps my chances).

132 Danny Boy April 13, 2009 at 10:19 am

fabric: 4-6-64
Medium spread collar
Contoured french cuffs
No Pocket

I need a shirt that is a slim, contoured fit. Ideally, It would have a plain back and regular front style.

If the shirt fits well, nice, low key details really stand out without being overly gaudy.

133 Luis April 13, 2009 at 10:27 am

I’ve found a great looking fabric that reminds me of a favorite shirt of mine from several years back that was misplaced by the cleaners.

ID# 4-6-29
Color: White / Blue
1. Collar Style: Classic Spread Collar
2. Cuff Type: Two Button Rounded Edge Cuff
3. Breast Pocket Selection & Location: No Pocket
5. Front Shirt Style: Regular Front Style
6. Back Shirt Style: Plain Back
7. Monogram Selection & Location: Breast Pocket (Low)
8. Monogram Details:
9. Monogram Stitching Color: Pink
10. Monogram Font Style: Block

134 Seth April 13, 2009 at 11:18 am

1) fabric choice: 4-6-88
2) collar style: point collar
3) cuff type: button
4)breast pocket style: no pocket

135 K-IntheHouse April 13, 2009 at 11:36 am

1. Custom Shirt Distinguished #4-1-41
2. Pointed collar
3. Cuff type: button
4. Square pocket

Thanks for the excellent giveaway!

136 Jace April 13, 2009 at 11:40 am

I would have a

white (#4-6-64)

with a regular buisiness collar

diamond cut pockets on the left,

round edge french cuff

purple monogram on the left cuff

plain back

137 Dan Pannebaker April 13, 2009 at 11:42 am

OK, I’m 51 years old with fair skin and bright blue eyes and what hair is left is gray. I feel that my ideal dress shirt should be made from fabric # 4-6-65, the pink herringbone. Not only will the color complement my skin, eyes, and hair, but the subtle pattern will really pop when some gets close. Because my face is round, I need a straignt point collar and would like the 2-button cut corner cuff ( I really like this shape!), and no breast pocket.

138 Andrew April 13, 2009 at 11:53 am

Fabric type #4-8-36 (a subtle gray)
Narrow straight-point collar
Square-edge French cuff
No breast pocket.

Also, side pleats on the back and, for variety, a monogram on the left forearm.

139 Luke Zeller April 13, 2009 at 11:54 am

As a college student, I don’t have a lot of business clothes. I’ll be interviewing for a career soon though, and it would be nice to have a classic and elegant dress shirt.

1. #4-6-64, a nice white herringbone
2. Medium spread collar
3. 2 button cut corner cuff
4. No pocket

140 Aaron Foley April 13, 2009 at 12:02 pm

Finding afforadable and stylish dress shirts has always been a problem given my +18′ neck . All the good ones tend to end stop at the smaller sizes leaving me with a choice of pastey white or cliche blue. let me tell you it sucks.

1) Essential Business
2 ) Regular Business Collar,
3) Two Button Square Edge Cuff
4) no pocket

141 Chad Sunderman April 13, 2009 at 12:02 pm

Great Post!!

My ideal shirt:

1. #4-6-73
2. Classic Spread
3. One button square edge cuff
4. Square Pocket

142 Jeremy April 13, 2009 at 12:21 pm

Ideal shirt for me-

Barrell cuffed
Spread collar


143 Jon April 13, 2009 at 12:22 pm

1 – #4-8-2
2 – medium spread collar
3 – 1 button rounded cuff
4 – no pocket

* athletic or fitted cut

144 Patrick April 13, 2009 at 12:24 pm

Very nice article. I had a couple custom made suits when I was in the military and was serving in the Middle East. They are much less expensive over there, and the quality is very good. I also had a custom shirt made, and I love it (though I admit the details were nothing like I see from A Tailored Suit!

I would go with:
1. 4-6-14
2. Classic Spread Collar
3. One button Corner Cuff
4. Diamond Cut Pocket

145 Deborah R April 13, 2009 at 12:34 pm

#4-6-1 Multicolor
Classic Button Down Collar
Two Button Rounded Edge Cuff
Diamond Cut Pocket

146 Nate @ Debt-free Scholar April 13, 2009 at 1:01 pm

My Ideal Shirt:

ID# 4-3-3 Blue
Classic Button Down Collar
Two Button Corner Cuff
Diamond Pocket


147 Andrew Tatum April 13, 2009 at 1:18 pm

My ideal shirt
Fabric ID #4-6-64
Medium Spread Collar
One Button Cut Corner Cuff
Diamond cut pocket


148 Tibi Puiu April 13, 2009 at 1:19 pm

Cool contest, once again, Brett.

1) fabric choice: #4-2-2
2) collar style: Medium Spread Collar
3) cuff type: One Button Rounded-Edge Cuff
4)breast pocket style: No Pocket

149 Keith April 13, 2009 at 1:30 pm

Ideal Dress Shirt: Proper fit, including not strangling me, and details as follows:

Fabric # 4-6-64
Collar: Point Collar
Cuff: French Cuff
Pocket: no

150 Joey C. April 13, 2009 at 1:46 pm

1) #4-6-79
2) Medium Spread Collar
3) Two Button Rounded Edge Cuff
4) No Pocket

151 John H. April 13, 2009 at 2:03 pm

Well, coming from a slacker college student with no prior knowledge, this was really good info. Thank you!

My ideal shirt:

Fabric: #4-6-88
Collar type: point style
Cuff type: One Button Square Edge Cuff
Breast pocket: No thank you

152 Stevie S April 13, 2009 at 2:08 pm

1) Fabric: #4-8-83
2) Collar Style:Regular Business Collar
3) Cuff Type: One Button Cut Corner Cuff
4) Breast Pocket Style: No Pocket

153 Brett C April 13, 2009 at 2:31 pm

To learn more about men’s classic dressing read Alan Flusser’s, Dressing the Man. That book really opened my eyes to everything I had once noticed but never knew about classic mens clothes.

1) #4-6-61 Blue with herringbone
2) Classic Spread Collar
3) One Button Cut Corner Cuff (although it depends on the use, suit or sport)
4) No Breast Pocket

154 DMD April 13, 2009 at 3:13 pm

point collar
one button cut corner cuff
square pocket

155 Jason April 13, 2009 at 3:26 pm

Fabric # 4-6-18
Regular business collar
One button square edge cuff
Square Pocket

156 Rhodric April 13, 2009 at 3:42 pm

These contests are amazing, such useful stuff.

1) #4-1-41 (black)
2) Medium Spread Collar
3) Two Button Cut Corner Cuff
4) no breast pocket

157 Chris R April 13, 2009 at 4:04 pm

My ideal shirt:

Fabric #4-6-88
Regular business collar
Two button rounded edge cuff
Diamond cut pocket

Thanks much!

158 Sean Pierce April 13, 2009 at 4:59 pm

Why is it that no shirt maker on the planet has a crimson or other deep red shirt. Or even a deep purple for that matter. I only wear french cuff shirts which is even more impossible to find. I would highly suggest the hosts of this contest to make such a thing… I would buy one in a heartbeat. I think this is a great contest though.

so dream shirt…

fabric: blue #4-6-60
collar: straight point
cuff: square french cuff
pocket: none
front: regular panel
back: plain

Monograming: SLP right cuff (positioned on the interior side of the cuff or on top of the cuff centered on the writst.)

color: blue to match the pattern of the shirt

font: script.

regular fit.

It would be awesome to get mother of pearl buttons (or ivory if it was legal). It would also be great for the monogram to be a large S with the L and P in the circular portions of the “S”

Brass collar stays would be nice too.

159 Fornio April 13, 2009 at 5:11 pm

Great contest:

Fabric: 4-6-77
Collar: Regular Business Collar
Cuff: Two Button Rounded Edge Cuff
Pocket: No Pocket

160 EricR April 13, 2009 at 5:13 pm

My dream shirt would make an impression without jumping out too much. Something like this:

fabric: blue 4-2-2
collar: regular business
cuff: 2 button cut corner
pocket: square

I would also go with the center pleats on the back, and monogramming on the right cuff, dark blue, block.

161 Daetan B. Huck April 13, 2009 at 6:43 pm

Great article. I’d like to see A Tailored Suit update with some information on the specifics of cuffs, pockets, and the back shirt style because they seem well-reputed and authoritative on the subject!

Regular Business Collar
Square Edge French cuff
No pocket

162 Travis K April 13, 2009 at 7:02 pm

Great contest guys!

My ideal dress shirt would be:
1)#4-6-69 cotton
2)Regular Business Collar
3)One Button Square Edge Cuff
4) No pocket

I would also add a plain back style with the monogramming on the right cuff with the letters TWK in white script style.

163 Shem S April 13, 2009 at 7:33 pm

I’m always interested in the articles this website generates, although I’m surprised that none of them have focused on the smell of a man. That would be an excellent idea for a post, while your shirt can give an impression, the smell you give can be just as important.

Great contest!

My ideal dress shirt:
1) # 4 – 6 – 69, cotton
2) Straight point collar
3) French Cuff
4) No pocket

164 Dan April 13, 2009 at 7:44 pm

I’d have to go with something simple yet elegant.

Fabric: #4-6-47
Collar: Medium spread
Cuff: Contoured French Cuff
Pocket: None

165 Jimq April 13, 2009 at 7:45 pm

A twill fabric, blue stripes on white
Medium spread collar
French cuffs
Shoulder/back “pleats”
Square pocket
and tails long enough to stay tucked in.

I love dress shirts

166 Living Off Dividends & Passive Income April 13, 2009 at 7:47 pm

I stumbled your post.

1. wrinkle-free cotton (what are these reference numbers)
2. spread collar
3) One Button Square Edge Cuff
4) No pocket

167 Andrew Robinson April 13, 2009 at 7:58 pm

1. #4-1-2 Pink
2. Classic Spread Collar
3. Contoured French Cuff
4. Diamond Cut Pocket

168 Dave April 13, 2009 at 8:07 pm

1) #4-1-1 White
2) Medium Spread Collar
3) One Button Convertible Cuff
4) None

169 Jamie April 13, 2009 at 8:17 pm

I would love one of these:

Fabric: #4-7-76
Classic Button Down Collar
Two Button Cut Corner Cuff
No pocket

170 Mathias April 13, 2009 at 8:20 pm

1. Fabric #4-6-39
2. Classic Spread Collar
3. Square Edge French Cuff
4. No Breast Pocket

171 Michael April 13, 2009 at 8:49 pm

Neat article!

Fabric: 4-6-69
Collar: Straight Point Collar
Cuff: One Button Square Edge
Pocket: No Pocket

172 David Oxley April 13, 2009 at 9:24 pm

Great article. Can’t go wrong with:

Fabric: #4-6-88
Collar: Straight Point Collar
Cuff: One Button Cut Corner Cuff
Pocket: No Pocket

173 Chuck April 13, 2009 at 9:35 pm

1) 4-6-88
2) Classic Spread Collar
3) Two Button Cut Corner Cuff
4) No Pocket

174 Daniel Brooks April 13, 2009 at 11:07 pm

1:fabric 4-6-8
2:medium spread collar
3:one button rounded edge cuff
4:diamond cut pocket on the left breast

175 Daniel April 14, 2009 at 12:31 am

Unlike many of the other men of his time peacocking about in bright, brand name colors- my grandfather never forgot that cash was never a substitute for class. Only (1)*solid white herringbone (4-6-64)* would wrap the thick shoulders of a man whose life’s purpose was to help bear the burdens of others. On many men, a (2)*straight point collar* would accentuate the face- but on this Hyperion, it drew attention to the fact that there was more to admire than his confident, brotherly countenance. Light would catch on a simple silver cufflink in a (3)*square french cuff* drawing attention to- and subtle envy of- the person who grasped this man’s hand in brotherhood. He wore (4)*no breast pocket,* but those that knew him well swear that there once was one, maybe even two, but they were torn off the shirt long ago in an outpouring of love from this man’s great heart. Many men can claim their dress makes for an impressive entrance, but hardly anyone can say that they didn’t notice when my granfather left a room.

176 Brian April 14, 2009 at 4:48 am

I like shirts that stand out a little and send a subtle message of strength, especially using strong, rich colors.

Fabric: 4-6-88
Collar: Classic spread collar
Cuff: One-button square edge cuff
Pocket: Left square pocket

177 Andrew M. April 14, 2009 at 6:07 am

Fabric: # 4-3-1
Collar: Rounded
Cuff: 2 button cut corner
Pocket: none

178 Evan April 14, 2009 at 6:10 am

I’m 5′ 9″ but broad shouldered, and I have had more trouble than I’d like finding dress shirts that actually fit. They either a) fit my arm length but movement is no-no because the buttons battle for their purchase at my chest or b) it looks like I’m wearing a moo-moo because the next size up is too large for my torso (don’t even ask about the sleeves). Even fitted shirts can’t get the job done. Looks like tailored shirts is my only reprieve (but then the budget comes into play…). So, if I had the choice for tailored shirt that would actually fit me, here goes:

Fabric: 4-6-29
Collar: Point
Cuff: French, square
Pocket: None

And there we go. Good luck everyone!

179 Bob Jones, Esq April 14, 2009 at 6:39 am

My ideal shirt:
1) White Cotton 4-6-79
2) Spread Collar
3) French Cuffs
4) No Pocket

180 Adam Lewkovitz April 14, 2009 at 6:44 am

Fabric: #4-6-29
Collar: Regular Business Collar
Cuff: French, square
Pocket: None
(Form fit, Regular Front Style,Centered Box Pleat, Contrast white collar and cuffs if you’ll permit me to be picky)

Starting my new job next week so fingers crossed!! Good luck everyone!

P.S at 6″6′ finding shirts is a real pain so this will be a welcome addition to my collection.

181 Christopher April 14, 2009 at 6:50 am

1) #4-6-69 Blue Herringbone
2) Medium Spread Collar
3) Square Edge French Cuff
4) Diamond Cut Pocket (for a pen and pair of glasses, yes pockets are still useful!)

182 Kyle April 14, 2009 at 6:51 am

Fabric: #4-6-65
Collar: Straight point
Cuff: Rounded edge French cuff
Pocket: Diamond cut, left side
Form fit
Panel front style
centered box pleat back

183 Umbratikus April 14, 2009 at 6:57 am

For dress, I prefer standard #4, white, although I am also a fan of lightly textured shirts, such as Oxford cloth. Point collars over spread. I have never owned french cuffs, but I think I might like them if I had a nice set of cufflinks, so I could go either way on this one. I am also indifferent as to breast pocket style.

184 Brian Cromeens April 14, 2009 at 7:23 am

Fabric: 4-8-35

Collar: Classic Button Down

Cuff: Two button Cut Corner

Pocket: No Pocket

Front: Panel

Back: Plain

This is my first comment on this site, I would like to say that it is refreshing to see that there are those that have recognized the affect that the fall of the gentleman has had on society. Please keep up the good work. I cannot express how much the advice on this site has helped me with my education, and with my personal relationships.

185 Rob April 14, 2009 at 7:30 am

Fabric: 4-6-71
Collar: medium or quarter spread
Cuff: rounded button cuff
Pocket: single pocket, left breast, square.

Also, I think Jerry’s right about this: The second button is the key button. It literally makes or breaks the shirt.

186 Jason Nickolay April 14, 2009 at 7:40 am

Awesome giveaway. My picks are

Color: Pattern #4-6-61
Collar Style: Regular Business Collar
Diamond Cut Pocket
Panel Front Style
Square Pocket

187 Brian April 14, 2009 at 8:38 am

My ideal shirt

fabric: #4-6-79
collar: regular business collar
front pocket: diamond cut pocket
cuff: two button rounded edge

Since i don’t have many shirts my ideal is versatile, well fitting, and high quality.

188 Dan L April 14, 2009 at 8:40 am

My ideal shirt would be…

Fabric: #4-1-41 Black
Collar: Widespread collar
Cuffs: Sq edge French
Breast pocket: none
Panel Fit style
Side Pleats
Form Fit


189 Hamish C April 14, 2009 at 8:47 am

The point of this shirt is to be slightly formal, with a subtly quirky individual twist to it.
To that effect the fabric (#4-6-67) is tilted about five or six degrees, giving the pattern a slight slant to the left. That’s from the wearer’s left shoulder down to the right side of their waist.

The collar should be medium spread, so that
a) it doesn’t clash too badly with the slanted pattern
b) it works with the wearer’s face

The cuffs should be contoured french, to allow for some stylish, individual cufflinks.

Continuing with the theme of subtle quirkyness, the breast pocket should be diamond cut on the right hand side, not only to set the shirt apart, but to make life easy for a southpaw such as myself.

So, in review
Fabric – #4-6-67 (with a six degree tilt)
Collar – Medium Spread
Cuffs – Contoured French
Pocket -Diamond cut on the right side.

This shirt would work very well with a suit in most shades of grey, black or blue and while it isn’t the sort of shirt you would wear every day it’s the sort of shirt you can use to make some impact when image really counts.

190 Speedmaster April 14, 2009 at 9:30 am

Great post!! Thanks very much for the contest, too.

My entry is:
1) Fabric choice: #4-3-3
2 ) Collar style: Straight Point Collar
3) Cuff type: Square Edge French Cuff
4) Breast pocket style: Diamond Cut Pocket

191 Russell April 14, 2009 at 10:06 am

1) 4-8-14
2) Classic Spread Collar
3) Two Button Rounded Edge Cuff
4) Rounded Pocket

If could have a custom shirt it would stand out – and I think the above would do it.

192 sfc April 14, 2009 at 10:30 am

My ideal shirt would be non-white, spread-collar with french or barrel cuffs. But I guess it would depend on the occasion (work, leisure, evening). Here are my choices for the custom shirt
1) 4-6-49
2) Classic Spread Collar
3) Two Button Cut Corner Cuff
4) No packet


193 dbattles April 14, 2009 at 11:22 am

1) #4-6-13
2) Medium spread. I don’t have any spread collared shirts, so this is my chance to branch out :)
3) Rounded French cuffs
4) Square left breast pocket

I wear a shirt and tie every day at the seminary which I attend, so this would be a nice new look since I could never afford this out of my own pocket. And I am single, so maybe the new look will help in that area too :)

194 Dom April 14, 2009 at 11:25 am

My girlfriend went to Ireland and brought me back a pair of Guinness cuff links, so my ideal shirt would have to be one that goes with the cuffs.

Straight point collar
Square edge french cuff
Diamond cut pocket on the left breast
Regular front
Centered box pleat for the back

Simple, yet classy.

195 Phillip April 14, 2009 at 11:27 am

What a terrific contest. If I win, I’m likely to wear it for a week just to show it off.

1) Fabric- 4-6-68
2) Collar – straight point
3)Cuff- 2 button cut corner
4) no pocket

196 Dennis April 14, 2009 at 11:53 am

In the article you did not mention anything about button down collars. Are they a no-no for a formal shirt?

Here is my ideal shirt: Fabric: #4-6-36, Classic Button down collar (unless its a no-no), Contoured French Cuff Shirt, Left Diamond Cut breast pocket.

It would be great to win this shirt so that I can wear my cuff-links again. My previous French-Cuff shirt shrunk. (Well, maybe I grew)

Thanks for having this great contest.

197 Greg April 14, 2009 at 11:58 am

My ideal shirt would be:

Fabric 4-6-69
Straight Point collar
Two button rounded-edge cuff
No breast pocket

198 Chris April 14, 2009 at 12:49 pm

Ideal shirt has to have French cuffs and be fitted otherwise they tend to balloon around me.

Fabric: #4-3-34
Collar type: Medium spread collar
Cuff type: Two button rounded-edge cuff
Breast pocket: No pocket

199 William April 14, 2009 at 12:57 pm

My ideal business shirt:

Fabric: #4-3-1
Collar: Regular business collar
Cuff type: Two Button Cut Corner Cuff
Breast pocket: No pocket

200 Jonathan April 14, 2009 at 1:20 pm

Cool opportunity…

I would rock:

Fabric: #4-6-5
Collar type: Classic Spread
Cuff type: Contoured French Cuff
Breast pocket: Diamond Cut

My wife would love me forever if I wore that :)

Peace & Manliness…


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