Editors note: This is a guest post by Ethan Hagan from One Project Closer.
A Quick Intro
In the video, I share that you’re about to learn how to make “the only workbench you’ll ever need.” That’s a bit of an overstatement, especially for woodworking enthusiasts who will need features like an integrated vice and bench dogs. If that’s you, I’ll bet you already have an exceptional workbench. For the rest of us, what we need is a solid, versatile work-surface for assembling a bird feeder one day and re-sharpening a mower blade the next.
Maybe you don’t think a workbench is really all that important. After all, you’ve only got a few tools and everyone knows the folding table in the basement is your space. A dedicated workbench isn’t worthwhile, is it? I’ve seen too many guys stashing their tools in a kitchen drawer or expecting their kids to not touch the freshly painted picture frame. You need a proper place to work and store your tools, and I’m going to show you how to build it.
How to Build an All-Purpose Workbench
Your workbench is going to have some key features like a strong, rigid work surface, power for your corded tools or chargers, a shelf to store tools and accessories, and wheels so that you can move about. The materials are going to run about $120 (cheap ≠ quality) and you should secure a drill/driver, miter* saw or circular saw*, and jig saw* before getting started.
*You can substitute a handsaw if you’re up to the challenge.
Materials:
Head over to the local home improvement center with this shopping list:
- (1) sheet of 3/4″ sanded plywood
- (1) sheet of 3/8″ plywood
- (9) 2—4×8′s
- (8) Simpson rigid tie connectors (see below)
- (200 count) #8 x 1-1/4″ screws
- (4 count) 3″ screws
- (1) tube of heavy-duty construction adhesive
- (4) 2-1/2″ locking casters
- Mountable power strip
I’ve listed nominal plywood thicknesses, however the store will display actual thicknesses. For instance 3/4″ plywood is actually 23/32″ and 3/8″ plywood is actually 11/32″ thick. Sanded plywood will give you a nice, splinter-free surface, and, at 3/4″ thick, it’ll absorb a lot of deflection.
Have the store rip both sheets of plywood in half (resulting in 2 x 8' pieces) to save some work.
Straight boards make for a straight workbench, so look down the length for any cupping (side-to-side curve) or crowning (up-down curve), and put those boards back.
The Simpson ties are awesome because they form the corners of your workbench and shelf. Without these, you'd need a lot of angled braces.
The #8 screws are usually sold right next to the Simpson ties because they're designed for each other.
Down to Size
Since the home improvement center ripped the plywood for you, all you need to do is cut the 2×4′s down to size. Use a square to mark straight lines. Here are the lengths:
- (5) 90″ for the lengthwise supports
- (4) 17″ for the width-wise supports
- (4) 36″ for the legs
- (2) 24″ for the caster supports
Let me save you some confusion and tell you that the plywood is going to overhang one side by 3″. This is on purpose because that overhang will protect the power strip that we’ll mount to the side.
Some Assembly Required
To put this beast together, start with the sides. Grab a leg and width-wise support and slip a Simpson tie in place. Use pieces of scrap to make sure all the heights line up, and be sure to orient the legs the same way we show in the pictures.
Remember, you need two Simpson ties per leg (one for the work surface and one for the shelf), and corresponding ties should sit at the same height. Put screws in all of the pre-drilled holes, keeping each piece firmly against the adjacent pieces.
Now it's time for the length-wise supports. There are five of these because we'll use the extra to reinforce the work surface.
Run the extra support centered between the other two, and secure it through each end with two 3" screws.
Before you put on the 3/4" plywood top, run a bead of construction adhesive on all the supports. Put screws every 16" or so. Once you're finished, flip the table upside-down.
Next, grab one of your 3/8" plywood pieces and cut 2x4 notches in all the corners to account for the table legs. I used a jigsaw but a handsaw would work just fine. Do the same for the remaining piece of 3/4" plywood.
This piece of plywood is going to be fastened to the underside of your work surface. It may seem odd, but this "torsion box" design will further improve the rigidity of your work surface. Glue and screw just like with the 3/4" plywood.
While it's upside-down, screw those caster supports between the table legs and then fasten the casters in place. These supports are important because otherwise the caster is only sitting on end-grain which makes for a weak joint.
Flip the bench right-side-up and put on the 3/4" plywood (glue and screw) for the shelf. Lastly, mount that power strip underneath the overhang. This'll help prevent sawdust, paint, oil, etc. from damaging the strip.
Gloat
Step back and marvel at your creation because you have just finished building a hardcore workbench. Go ahead and feel the solid work surface that won’t bounce when you’re hammering something together. Unlock the casters and move your workbench around the room. Set up a battery charger on the conveniently mounted power strip. Best of all, call up your friends and brag.
_____________________________________
Ethan Hagan is the primary editor at One Project Closer. He spends most of his days shadowing real contractors on actual job sites and most of his nights writing about the experience. To see what I mean, check out their latest “Pro-Follows” or finished, expert guides on things like How to Build A Shed and How to Build a Deck. If learning and interacting with pro contractors sounds like something you’d enjoy, sign up for OPC email updates.
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{ 80 comments… read them below or add one }
Excellent article. Everyone needs a work surface other than the kitchen table. I made my portable workbench from a donated Boos Block laminated-maple table top. I welded up a frame from 2″ square tubing (1/8″ wall) and installed some non-marring locking casters. The whole mess probably weighs 150 lbs., but it’s rock-solid and the 30″ width allows it to be moved through most doorways. I’m in the middle of a home remodel, and being able to move it from room to room is a good thing. What’s nice about the Boos Block is that, in addition to being tougher than a whore’s heart, it’s as flat as anything this side of a granite surface plate. After reading this article, I think a power strip will get installed this weekend…..
Great directions. Great workbench–especially the integrated powerstrip. One change I would recommend would be NOT to glue the top sheet onto the frame. That way you can easily change it out after a few years…or one disastrous project.
Do you find that not treating the wood is ok?
I have two very similar ones in my garage right now. I’ve never used a bracket before. Seems like it’s cheating. ;)
I made a similar workbench for myself a few years back with timber found in a pile of scrap from a house construction next door. I was given the material for the bench top, a 1/2″ thick marine plywood. The legs are 4″x4″ and the timber bracing is 2″x4″. I had to forego the under shelf becaisue I needed to store some of my wifes junk under the bench…Well actually it was my junk that I was going to throw away, but the wife commandeered it before I could, damn it all :-)! I also have a powerboard on mine. I’ve set it up with a drill press and a bench grinder/multi-tool rig for my knife-making hobby and anything else I feel like working on. Most recently I added a wood turning lathe to my work area which I simply bolted down to a pair of saw-horses. It seems to be ideal as it puts the lathe at a nice work height and has no vibration or instability during use. It was certaily easier than constructing a new bench just for that as well.
Love it!
I am actually working on making one a bit different myself. I have an old server desk from my work that we couldn’t sell so I took for scrap. We then had the idea to trim it down to fit in the garage and make it mobile so I can roll it anywhere inside or in front of the garage to work on any projects including the cars. It is much taller, so still figuring out if I want to keep it tall in the back for a pegboard to keep it shot like this one.
Definitely some good ideas! Thank!
Great project. What kind of expense are we looking at here all said and done?
Looks like a good design. I never thought of using brackets, but that looks like a good reinforcement.
I do have an addition, everyone should have two workbenches. One at a comfortable sitting height, and one at a height for stand up work. It really saves your back that way! I made a sit down and stand up and love being able to choose whichever fits the job at hand.
Looks amazing! Can you teach me how to make a retracting work bench for my apartment?
This is just the inspiration I needed for the computer desk I’m planning to build! Of course there will be some deviation from that above, but thank you so much!
Ethan,
It appears your miter saw jig (in background) is made to the right height so you can place it next to your tool bench for long cuts of wood. Am I onto something? I’d love to get those plans!
Great workbench, but give it a coat of satin enamel and it will make a very manly workspace in the kitchen.
Very nice design. I have never seen those tie connectors before; those are sweet. I made my workbenches using this design:
http://woodgears.ca/workbench/build.html
But when you have kids, you don’t have time cut dados, drill dowel holes, and wait for glue to dry. Wish I’d seen this two years ago!
Great directions! Building mine today… but going to add a 24inch magnetic strip along the top front 2×4 to hold tools and parts while working.
Very nice. Wish I would have known about Simpson ties about 6 weeks ago when I built mine. This is probably one of the best plans I have seen for a general purpose bench.
Hey everyone,
Thanks for the kind words and suggestions. I’m gonna try to answer some questions:
@SB- We’ve considered adding a melamine top that’ll be easily replaced. It’s a better approach than NOT gluing b/c the glue really does contribute to a strong work surface.
@Nick- As long as the surface doesn’t get wet often (and stay wet), untreated wood is just fine. Plus the casters keep it up off the floor.
@Bryan- It cost about $120. Not the cheapest option, but a good workbench is worth it (IMO).
@Bruce- You’ve got a good eye! We made the miter bench shorter so that the other workbenches act as supports. The only difference is that we shortened the legs. Here are some more pictures.
@Kirk- I love the idea of a magnetic strip. I might just add that too….
Solid, functional, well-designed and well-built workbench. Going to add those plans to my growing list of workbench plans. THANK YOU!
@SB – The glue on the top is part of what makes the top surface a the torsion box. No, it’s not a *great* torsion box, but the setup shown is part of what gives it the rigidity that a good workbench needs.
Yes, you run a risk of screwing it up with one bad project. But a new sheet of 3/8″ plywood can be laid over the top and screwed down to “cover up” the mistake when it happens.
Or, get a sheet of 1/4 or 1/8″ hardboard and make a “cover” for the workbench when you’re working on things that could really make a mess of the top surface. That’s what I have for my “nice” woodworking bench.
Nice bench! With a few modifications, this would make a GREAT Big Green Egg table!
While this would be a great bench for a time I have to say that the fasteners used are inappropriate. It would be more cost effective and sturdier to use carriage bolts instead. Carriage bolts can be removed I you need to move the table and can be tightened/replaced as time goes on. As you use your table you will come to find that the stress of working on it torquing the table, pushing on ends and whatnot, the table will start to wobble, using fixed fasteners held together with screws, you will not be abot to tighten it and may, in fact, damage the wood where the screws are set making you unable to repair it and resulting in new legs being needed. Carriage bolts are easy to use and replace, the hardest part would be making a counter sunk hold for the nut to go if you choose, you could just have the end of the bolt stick out to the underside of the shelf/top. You can do that easily with a paddle bit.
I have a similar one that I built. Looks good.
Hi ATJ, Using carriage bolts in lieu of the #8 screws would NOT be more cost effective OR easier to install. You’d need multiple lengths, washers and nuts. You won’t be able to purchase all that for less than the $18 you’d spend on the screws I recommend. Plus, you’d need to pre-drill (and potentially countersink) every hole before inserting the carriage bolt.
Thanks for this! I have been looking for a good plan to put into action as I came across a nice butcher block piece of maple (from a machine shop going out of business) last summer and want to turn it into the top of a nice workbench. This is a great plan!
Very nice, now to find plans for a shed to build it in.
I just made my own and its not quite a pretty as that one(I need a miter saw I only have a hand saw) . I could find some cheaper possibly better composite board for the top than the piece that was shown in the article. I think I paid 12-14 bucks. Same dimension as the one above.
A few ideas:
Layout a right angle on the surface and make a graphic ruler so you never have to look for one.
Consider hinging the top as you made a box and could keep tools in it. This would be less sturdy, but I would double the thickness of the top and it would make up for it. To laminate plywood use const adhesive and place sheets together on a flat concrete surface. Add weight on top and you may screw through from bottom while maintaining the work surface if you feel the need. A belt sander makes the sides perfect.
Seal the top at the very least with laquer or some other finish.
Consider for an advanced bench: a laminate top may include a t shaped cut out with top layer wider than bottom. Multiple same sized inserts can be made and tools like vises, saws, grinders, etc can be fit and removed as needed.
Very cool design and plans, thanks.
One question — what are these?
(9) 2—4×8′s
Do you mean 2x4x8?
@TMZ- good catch. That should read (9) 2x4x8′s.
Thanks for clarifying that. I’m a real newb when it comes to this stuff so it’s always likely that I just don’t know about something… subscribed to your blog, looking forward to more posts from you.
What is the finished height of the bench?
Very cool. I wonder if I could use this general idea to build a solid beer pong table?
So…Seeing as how the bench has an enclosed space at the top and bottom, how about putting a set of hinges on the top portions of the tables to create some storage space?
I built a smaller version for reloading. It worked out great with one exception, and I see the same weakness here. The casters. The workbench can handle the abuse and pounding, but all that energy is transferred through the workbench to the casters, which quickly go to caster heaven. My solution was to buy a couple of furniture slides that I use whenever I have to move it. Not the most elegant solution, but functional for those infrequent moves.
I would buy a 1/8″ inch piece of plywood over the top. Bench tops get worn down and dirty so can change this as needed. Just let it float.
I built this yesterday, with a couple of changes.
Didn’t glue the tops down. More easily replaced in the future.
36 inch legs were too tall if you are planning to stand while working (but i’m only 6ft tall). Also, if you use 34 inch legs, you only need 8 studs instead of 9.
I cut the length down to 7 ft. Easier to move around my smaller garage and still plenty of benchtop to work on.
Didn’t do the 3-inch overhang. Instead, mounted the power-strip on the bottom shelf between the legs.
Mounted a magnetic tool holder to the front rail for holding handtools and parts when working.
Bought everything at Home Depot. It was about $160 in total cost (plus another $15 for the magnetic strip). Lumber costs must be higher where i live.
This thing is STRONG !! The Simpson brackets square everything up automatically and add some extreme strength to the whole bench. VERY solid construction.
If there’s ever a tornado, i’m going to take shelter below this workbench.
Am VERY pleased with the results.
Thanks Ethan !
First off, what a completely awesome work bench! I wish I would have seen these plans before I made my work bench. i never even thought of making one that’s mobile.
My current work bench is actually made out of a lower kitchen cabinet on one end (nice for storage), 1×3 supports on the other end, and double thick 3/4 plywood. All material was donated by my father-in-law. Total cost $0 and two-hours of labor! So don’t forget to check with friends and family for useful scrap that you can craft into a manly masterpiece!
Man, wish I knew about those Samson brackets about 10 years ago. But they probably didn’t exist then!
The only thing I’d do to this is add a middle shelf. If you look at the “gloat” pic, he’s got toolboxes stacked on other toolboxes. I can’t have that!
‘Course, I stuffed an entire metal shop (with welders, tanks, grinders, shears, and helve hammer) into a 1-car garage, so I’m a bit of a space freak.
Very nicely done and illustrated. This is a project that even a novice can easily follow with the excellent directions.
Very nice plans. Just had a 30 x 40 shop built for my husbands auto repairing and my woodworking, so this would come in handy for a womanly as well as manly solution. Thanks for the ideas.
I built from these plans this afternoon and have to say that this thing is strong and big. It is easy to overlook the size when looking at the pictures, but it is almost 8′ long. I have some pictures on my G+ post about it here >> https://plus.google.com/101772483800523413467/posts/382jyJf412V
Also, a brief note. I had one extra 2x4x8′ and had to use ~250 #8 screws, so an extra box of them would not be a waste if you are buying them in 100 count as I am.
~$150 at Home Depot, lumber is more expensive right now.
So, I did this project with my long weekend, and it turned out very nice, I just made a few minor adjustments. Took the whole thing down to six and a half feet long, for my own space requirements, and I left a small overhang all the way around as I do a lot of small work with small clamps and need something thinner than a 2×4 to hook on to. We also had the bright idea to cut down the bottom shelf to 14 inches wide, leaving space to pull a shop stool or tall chair up under there if you ever need one. Very strong bench, for sure, and a very easy project for an afternoon. The shorter length led to slightly less lumber, and I chose to only use the strong ties on the top joints, so I wound up being right at $80 out the door of Home Depot.
In addition to my workbench that utilizes the donated, laminated-maple Boos Block for a top, I built a second bench for my dad that uses a solid-core door from Home Depot (Macy’s for Men). These things aren’t very expensive, flat as Twiggy’s chest, and faced in masonite. I removed the cheap white primer applied at the factory, finishing with #320 grit on my random-orbital sander, and applied three coats of clear urethane. At 30″ wide, it’s deep enough for such manly projects as cleaning rifles and shotguns, as well as building model airplanes, and it still passes through doorways without trouble.
Nice post, great project. A good solid work bench is a must for any work space.
I used 4×4 legs and the appropriate Simpson Strong ties. The recommended fasteners are far superior to carriage bolts. The “torsion box” isn’t really adding anything at this scale unless you plan on placing massive loads on top. Instead I screwed the second layer of 3/4 to the top. Now I can remove and replace it when it’s fouled and gouged. I built my bench about 9 years ago and use it just about every day. It’s still going strong!
One alternative suggestion for a work surface: get an old solid core door from a reclamation store or online community bargaining network. Perfect size and completely indestructible. I found mine for 25 bucks.
I’m Ethan’s partner in crime over at OPC and thought I would jump in on a few of the questions.
@Ryan – Checked out your G+ photos and it was exciting to see someone else build this workbench!
@Steven – Good mods. I definitely like the idea of the shorter bottom shelf for leg space.
@J – The torsion box can be a bit overkill, but it will actually help preserve the flatness over the course of a few years with a heavy load on top. We think for the cost of 1/2 sheet of 3/8″ plywood its worth adding, but it is definitely optional.
@Phillip – Solid core door will definitely work well for this, and it is very likely to be totally flat. Might be a little more expensive/harder to find than the materials we use here.
Glad this was so useful to everyone. Looking forward to our next opportunity to share a project!
This definitely earned a spot toward the top of my to-do list this summer. Looks useful and fun, great article!
I built mine a couple of years ago for about $40. I went for a sturdy design based on a lot of plans I found on the internet. You can see it here;
http://lumberjocks.com/projects/26973
Thank you for posting this. You have inspired me to build the outdoor kitchen I’ve idly fantasized about. I intend to start with this design, and add sides covered in faux stone and a glazed tile top. It will be used as a preparation surface and place to hold a tabletop grill.
One Project Closer now bookmarked. Great article!
I’m excited to get building on this but my pricing is coming out to a pretax $198.23. I still think it’s worth it but am I going overboard somewhere? I tried to buy all the same pieces and SKU’s as the pictures above. The only thing I think I’m “splurging” on is the surge protector which is coming out to $22. Maybe it’s just a regional thing (I’m in SE Michigan).
Thanks for the great article and thanks Ryan for sharing your building link above. You guys are really motivating me to get started when my schedule clears up next week.
I built this today, and noticed one thing. Perhaps I missed it, but I didn’t see instructions to trim 3″ off three of the four plywood sheets. The top is fine, with the 3″ overhang, but the three inside the frame are too long to fit!
For my project, I shortened the plans to six feet, and added a middle shelf. We have *no* kitchen cabinets in the 160 year-old house, and this will help a lot. It’s a tank.
@jollyprez thanks for the heads up on the 3inch trim. Maybe I won’t do the overhang
Quick, easy and inexpensive. I might have to make one for my wife’s studio so I can put away those cheap rickety plastic tables she LOVES.
Nice looking , simple bench! This is the kind of bench you can get down and get some work done with, because you won’t be afraid of marring a pretty hardwood top. I like the use of the braces, also. I recently moved into a new house, after a few years of “living small” so I am ready to build a new bench. I’m going to use your design for the base, only shorter, (6 feet) and add a top with a vise for woodworking.
Ed
Great plans! I just made a scaled down version of this for my cellar workshop. Although I used 3″ screws to attach the plywood for added strength.
Bad ass. Keep up the good work, men.
I just finished building a bench of my own this weekend. The only change I did was instead of the lower shelf running the entire length, I have 24″ wide shelves on either end with the center open to store a roll-away cabinet or to be able to sit at more comfortable. The change took the cost up to about $170 or so with the added brackets/screws. Also, instead of buying 3/4″ sanded ply, I found 3/4″ cabinet grade ply. Its still sanded but cost $10 less.
You have spurred me to build same but with scrap and repurposed lumber that shows using carpenter joining techniques (lap, dado, rabbet, dowel, biscuit, mortice, tenon)
This is fast and easy and versatile…
now the next chapter.
I just made this today! It was easy. I didn’t make the 8 ft one. I made a 4 ft one.
Just finished building my bench. The Simpson ties really make this easy, and sturdy! Only change I would make if I make another one of these benches is 4×4 legs instead of 2×4. Can buy Simpson ties for 4x4s too. Thanks for the instructions, fun project, great new addition to the garage!
I am really new to this but have a general question about the wood used to make the bench. Is there a specific reason why you would use plywood for the top surface instead of just two 12 inch sheets of pine or the same standard wood as the 2×4′s? Also, is there a specific type of wood I should avoid with the 2×4′s? Thanks.
Thanks for this post! I followed the directions fairly precisely. Everything turned out really well! The biggest change I made is to get some rough cut lumber from a local sawmill for the top. I wanted to experiment with finishing rough cut for indoor furniture, so this was a good way to do it and still have it be useful. I’d love to submit pictures if that is possible! I think it looks great, and is a great testament to the effectiveness of these directions! Thanks again!
I like encouraging people to build their own stuff, but I have to say a few things.
1. I would NEVER advise getting the Home Depot people to cut your stuff for you. Panel Saws may look like the easy solution, but a Circ Saw with a home made guide is much more accurate when you consider the average intelligence of HD workers.
2. Extending the toggles that support the top surface onto the legs rather than butting them up to the legs better transfer the forces and means that instead of those metal braces (which I generally find silly) you can just use some screws on a cornerblock or a simple keystone made from shop scrap.
3. No need for the Liquid Nail, just the drywall screws will hold down the lid. I never use adhesives on lids since it makes them easier to replace and the forces are generally always never acting on them in a way that would tear them off.
4. I’m a bit of an over builder, but I never screw in casters. I would make corner plates for the bottom and bolt them on. I’ve seen too many casters fail on tiny ridges in concrete.
Building one of these at the moment. Solid.
I have a question about the shopping list. Does this (9) 2—4×8′s
mean (9) 2×4 that are 8 feet long? Sorry for the stupid question, I’m not much of a handyman but I feel like I could build this bench. I appreciate you taking the time to put this together. It looks like a pretty solid bench.
@Eric, yes that’s what he meant. There was another comment about it.
Awesome plan! I changed mine up a little though. I made mine 5′ long instead and just a little bit shorter to suite my needs. Also, painted it flat black and placed a Detroit Red Wings logo on the bench top and then several coats of clear coat for protection.
I just finished it! It turned out nice and it is even more stable than I thought it would be. Thanks for the plans and the tutorial! What a great excuse to buy a chop saw.
Just finished this project. Thanks!
However, with clever cutting I only needed 8 2×4′s. I used the extra as a middle support for the bottom shelf.
Anyone else not use the full 9 boards? Did I miss something?
I think your project is cool, and I always appreciate when people actually build things, as opposed to assembling a kit. You learn things that way, and can make quality work.
Still, it would have been cool if you used mortise and tenon joints, instead of the metal joint connectors. If you learn how to do that, your projects will come out super cool and you’ll feel like a rockstar.
I am confused. If the boards are 2 x 4 and the middle board is cut to 17″ doesn’t that total 25″ and make the legs wider than the 24″ tabletop? I am sure this will turn out to be a dumb question. Thank you and I can’t wait to have my son and husband build this for me.
Is this strong enough to hold a vice or would the surface need to be thicker/stronger for that?
Just so everyone knows and maybe saves a little money. The Metal braces by simpson strong tie are available in a kit. it’s called the KWB1 workbench kit. Here in Canada, it’s $45 at home depot, and comes with 8 braces and 200 simpson screws. Not exactly sure where it might be available in the US, but might be worth looking for.
Also, built the bench for my garage…. works great! really solid and very easy to put together. I also managed to get by with only 8 2×4′s, so I ended up with an extra.
I just finished this project. Turned out great!! Very sturdy.
Joanne – 2 x 4′s are actually 1.5 x 3.5 inches. So, the width is 17 + 3.5 + 3.5 = 24.
Great post. I’m on it this weekend.
In the past, I’ve found a solid core door (one that is not pre-cut for handles and hardware) works better as a tabletop surface, but over all this is a great quick and easy work bench
This is a great project, but too big for my work area. Some have mentioned making a smaller (7′, 6′, 4′) version.
Are the 2′ x 4′ plywood project panels suitable (square) for a project like this? Would need to give up the overhang which is fine.
Any other adjustments need to be made to accomodate the smaller size?
Thanks!!
EDIT: Just realized I will not need to forego the overhang.
I’d like an overhang all the way around the table for clamping a fence of some type of straight edge for making straight easy cuts with my circular. Is this a dumb idea?? I’m pretty much a beginner, retired, and setting up a little shop in my basement to cope with Michigan winters. What do you all think? Great workbench. Can’t wait to get going!
Just bought everything on the list and am figuring out the details on building it in my head, and have a dumb question probably. Your not supposed to use the #8 screws for screwing the plywood down are you? I’m thinking that the heads would be above the surface of the plywood?
Awesome bench! I’ve just started surfing the net for good and simple designs and like this one the most so far. Any idea if it would be possible to attach a bench vice? Sorry for the noob question, I’m quite new to this :-)