The rugby shirt is an underrated menswear staple. Like denim or the leather boot, it started as tough, utilitarian gear and evolved into a style icon. Equal parts rugged and refined, rugby shirts straddle the line between athleticism and leisure, work and play, tradition and rebellion.
If you’ve never considered owning a rugby shirt — or thought they were just for Ivy League types or actual rugby players — it’s time to reconsider. They seem to be on the cusp of a comeback. Here’s why you should add a rugby shirt to your wardrobe and how to wear one with style.
A Brief History of the Rugby Shirt
This iconic shirt traces its origins to 19th-century England, when students at elite schools like Rugby, Eton, and Cambridge began codifying the game of rugby football. To endure the sport’s rough-and-tumble nature, players needed shirts that were hard-wearing and practical — a garment that could hold up under plenty of tackling, scrums, and rain-drenched pitches.
These early rugby jerseys were first made from wool, which was then swapped for thick, heavy-gauge cotton for greater durability. The shirts featured rubber buttons (to prevent the abrasions harder buttons could cause during collisions), long sleeves, and a contrasting twill collar that resisted stretching out during play. Over time, horizontal stripes, known as hoops, were added to distinguish teams.
By the mid-20th century, rugby shirts had jumped the fence from pitch to campus, a shift that grew out of school/team pride; initially they were like wearing a sports jersey, but they looked good enough that they grew into a bona fide style staple. Ivy League students adopted them as part of the burgeoning preppy look. In the decades since, they’ve become a wardrobe staple for everyone from punks and skaters to J.Crew models and Silicon Valley CEOs.
Why a Man Should Own a Rugby Shirt
They stand out without showing off. In a world where ordinary sweatshirts and sweaters predominate, rugby shirts, with their distinctive styling and colorful stripes, turn heads; they’re not loud, but they are different.
They balance rugged and refined. The rugby shirt’s athletic heritage gives it a certain ruggedness, but its collar, sturdy structure, and classic details add polish. It’s sporty without being sloppy, masculine without trying too hard. Rugby shirts elevate your casualwear while being as easy to throw on as a sweatshirt.
They’re versatile. You can dress a rugby shirt up or down. Toss it over jeans and sneakers for a fall tailgate or pair it with chinos and chukkas for a date with your gal.
They age well. Rugby shirts are genuinely durable, and with time, their fabric breaks in and develops real character. Like a good Oxford shirt or pair of jeans, it only gets better the more you wear it. Fraying cuffs, faded stripes, and softened collars tell a story.
When to Wear One
Transitional Weather. With their thicker but still breathable cotton fabric, rugby shirts thrive in spring and fall, when it’s too cool for a tee but too warm for a jacket.
Office Casual. Paired with chinos and boots, a rugby shirt anchors a smart-casual look suited to relaxed office settings.
Weekend Errands, Casual Dinners, and Coffee Runs. They’re comfortable enough to throw on and go, but refined enough to not look like you just rolled out of bed.
Outdoor Events. Tailgates, hayrides, early-morning soccer games, apple-picking — anywhere flannel might feel too lumberjack and a hoodie too juvenile.
Travel Days. They’re cozy for the plane, yet presentable for arrival. Plus, that twill collar means you don’t look like a slob when grabbing dinner after a long drive.
What to Look for in a Rugby Shirt
1. Heavyweight Cotton Jersey. Traditional rugby shirts are made from thick, durable cotton knit — something with enough heft to stand up on its own, but soft enough to feel broken in. Avoid synthetic, thin, or clingy fabrics.
2. Twill Collar. The hallmark of a classic rugby shirt. Usually white or off-white, this woven cotton collar contrasts with the knit body and gives the shirt structure. Bonus points if the collar stands up on its own without looking stiff.
3. Rubber Buttons or Hidden Placket. Original rugby shirts used rubber buttons, and that remains an authentic touch. Some modern versions hide the buttons altogether under a placket, which lends a cleaner look. Either option works.
4. Stripe Pattern (or Not). Bold horizontal stripes, or “hoops,” are a classic rugby shirt style detail. But solid versions or subtle patterns can be equally handsome — and sharper and more “formal.”
5. Proper Fit. Traditionally, rugby shirts were roomy for ease of movement. But too oversized and you’ll look like a kid wearing Dad’s clothes. Aim for a modern, athletic cut: fitted in the shoulders, a bit of room in the torso, and sleeves that stop at the wrist.
6. Reinforced Cuffs and Elbows. If you find a version with these details, you’ve got yourself a true workhorse. Not necessary — but nice.
7. Crests and Logos. Traditional rugby jerseys often carried a team crest on the chest. A small emblem can add authenticity, but oversized logos risk making the shirt look more chintzy than classic.
Dressing the Rugby Shirt Up or Down
Wearing a rugby shirt is stupidly simple.
For a casual look, pair it with dark or light denim and a pair of sneakers, and you’re good to go.
If you want to dress things up a bit from there, swap the jeans for chinos, tuck in the rugby shirt, add a leather belt, and swap the sneakers for chukkas, leather boots, or loafers. You’ve now entered smart casual territory.
Go ahead and add a rugby shirt to your wardrobe. They’ve got a rough-and-tumble pedigree, are durable and distinct, and with no more effort than donning jeans and a sweatshirt, will give you a more put-together look.
